[morzh]

Mike

Thanks. So the cap I have then makes sense, double vs what expected, and it usually doubles or triples.

[morzh]

http://philcoradio.com/phorum/printthread.php?tid=14685

Aha...also here...wonder why it didn't show up the first time.

[morzh]

I noticed my volume pot had been replaced with something that is not a pot with a tap.
Also the hookup had changed: the top pin of the pot is separated from the detector output by a cap etc.

The pot I need, though a different PN from the one in 118, seems to be the same, a 350K with 75K tap and switch pot. I think the same replacement part I bought from Mark will do here.

[morzh]

Ordered the pot from Marl, exact same part as for the 118, as I expected. $26 plus shipping. Acceptable.

Ordered stuff from Mouser. I am running thin on some caps and the big dog-bone resistors drifted down, as usual (somehow the big resistors of the main bias divider in all the radios, typically 13-16K and 10K driwt down; mine are 10K and 11K respectively; might work fine but as long as I am at it.....might as well), I bought both 5W rated, this will also help with mounting them as they are longer and won't require wiring.

Oh....the biggest dogbone, the 13K, was loose in the soldering post....the heat, I think. I just yanked it.

I will try to restore the original volume tone-compensated hook-up. The replacement volume pot is obviously larger value, no tap and is bypassed with another resistor to lower the value.

Oh! A heads up - if you buy #46 lamps from Daze, which are about $3.50 there.......they are about $0.60 in Mouser. Since I was ordering stuff in much larger qtys than I need for this project, I also ordered 10 of those.

[klondike98]

.....if you buy #46 lamps from Daze, which are about $3.50 there.......they are about $0.60 in Mouser. Since I was ordering stuff in much larger qtys than I need for this project, I also ordered 10 of those.

Mike...that just didn't sound right so I looked up the Radiodaze listing and they sell a pack of 10 #46 lamps for $3.35 and Mouser sells 'em for  $0.50 ea or 10 for $4.48.   

just sayin'... 

[morzh]

Ah......my mistake. But I've bought them anyways.
Considering the shipping has been already paid.

You....party pooper!

[morzh]

Hopefully Ron, Chuck or someone who recently restored a 16B could answer this:

As I stated before, there are some discrepancies between what I have in my chassis and the 16B sch in the Rider.

Mine might be a 16B code 121 as it uses an 80 rect tube.

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymodel...013139.pdf

These are the pictures of my radio and someone else's (Mcclellan's website, a restoration of a 16B)

Mine
   
The other
   


Now the volume pot arrangement is different. It does look like someone touched it, but:

1) The cap (in the picture the green tubular one going to the vol pot) is a Philco cap, plus present in both radios.
2) The red (or is it orange) resistor with a yellow dot is also present in both but is absent on the sch.
3) The arrangement is different: in the chassis' the cap is connected to the top point of the resistor separating it from #53 resistor and others. In the sch the cap is connected to the output.
4. My resistor is not tapped. Dunno about the other guy's one.

There are some other things rearranged or different.

Was there a change and is there a document to reflect this? Is there a schematic that reflect the changes if those were official?

Mike.

PS. Found another image on the ARF, same deal.
http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/view...5&t=206781

[Ron Ramirez]

If it is a 5-band set and uses an 80 rectifier, then it is a Code 121.

Model 16 underwent a number of changes, they are documented in the Philco Changes in Models package available for download here:

http://www.philcoradio.com/phorum/showth...hp?tid=215

One change not documented in there is the volume control being changed from a 350K tapped control to a 2 meg tapped control. The Nostalgia Air data for Model 16 includes a page outlining this change in the volume control circuit.

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymodel...013139.pdf

[morzh]

Thanks Ron

Now I have to try to gdt Mark Oppat to not send me the old value resistor sbd gind me the 33-5022 2M part.

[W2ica]

I extracted the tuning cap. There is a gear that has rubber coated parts. What do I do with those? Are the rubber parts being sold by anyone?

I just redid a 16 series with the "two speed" vernier.  All three of my rubber tires were perished.   There was a link referenced my many sites that is no longer alive.


For the large rubber tire on the dial hub, I used, (no laughing) the rubber seal ring from an oil filter available at any auto parts store.  The car quest number is R85732.  I used replacement rubber idler tires from when we used to repair vcrs to replace the smaller ones.  I will try and get you the part number that the supplier, Universal Semiconductor uses.

[W2ica]

Not sure if this is the best place to insert this but here goes. I just redid a 16 series chassis and it turned out incredible. Plays amazingly well. Here are some of the things I ran into other then the usual recapping.

Speaker field coil open. Not easily repaired on this one. Most of the time I've found the solder joint between lead wires and magnet wire corrode and break. This one has a break deep inside coil. New speaker found, hopefully good.

Bypass bank is lettered a bit strange. I guess Philco chose to go in descending order of capacitance instead of alphabetically. My Riders did not mention that, but my Philco manual did. E B A
C D * Not used


I chose to restuff all my bakelite blocks. Found several resistors way out of range too. Changed all as I rebuilt it.


Tuning condenser mounts were gone. Dust lol. I used the replacement from Radio Daze Phil 90 but being a tad to short, added 3 SAE#10 flat washers to each to bring tuner to a good height and make it solid. I got washers from Home Depot, (Everbuilt 800331)

When I brought radio up with a test speaker, it worked quite well first try, but I always touch up alignment. Use an insulated or fiber screw driver to adjust IF transformers. Mine had a tad bit too long of metal blade, shorted B+ on First IF and radio began self oscillating, motor boating, and would work only if stage was de tuned. Turns out the .05ufd cap (ref # 34) opened up and once replaced problem was resolved and retuned stage for full output. I'm thinking the 1.2k resistor used to substitute shadow meter saved me a problem with that!

[morzh]

I am trying to implement the change for the tone control.
Since I do not know what the new one #30-4069 looks like I need to mod mine which is a 6-tap, not sure if it is the 30-4033 shown in the sch..

I am not sure it has same number of taps as the new one (it mentions 4) or is it the same?

They have 7653-C backelite cap for 0.025uF externals but seems like both caps are connected to GND, so not sure I can use it the way it is as only one 0.025uF cap is grounded.

If someone has a good account on moddind the whole thing I'd be grateful.


Found this in Google archives.

http://philcoradio.com/phorum/attachment.php?aid=3308
This however does not show what the description in Production run #4 says it should be.


Aha. Found this

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=w...737D5LFb_Q


Seems to be it.

So the link before shows diagram wrong, and then the backelite cap should have the two caps in series conbecting together at centerlug.

[morzh]

Well....the description in the Philco document (or rather Rider's document) has an error:
In item #4 "Tone Conttol" it says:" ....while the third is permanently connected to ground through the other 0.025 mfd".

"The other 0.025uF" is connected to the common wire of the 0.09uF, 0.025uF going to the secobd tap and the 32kOhm resistor. That is the caps are connected the same way as in the old sch except the values had changed.

The last link I gave with youtuve shows that exactly that.

[morzh]

OK. More sad news, the shadowmeter seems open.
I was continuing recapping when seeing a resistor 3K value that is not on the sch....in short it was in parallel to the shadow meter, plus to really crudely fit tubular caps instead of disconnected backelite block. Actually all backelites are like this. And old petrified black tape.
The resistor is classic dogbone so the repair has to be old.

Well.....ok. We have Alabama radio club for that.

[Arran]

OK. More sad news, the shadowmeter seems open.
I was continuing recapping when seeing a resistor 3K value that is not on the sch....in short it was in parallel to the shadow meter, plus to really crudely fit tubular caps instead of disconnected backelite block. Actually all backelites are like this. And old petrified black tape.
The resistor is classic dogbone so the repair has to be old.

Well.....ok. We have Alabama radio club for that.

Mike
 Fortunately the fellow, whose video you linked to regarding the tone control, has another where he rewinds the coil on the shadow meter, but I seem to think that you rewound one of those before on one of your other sets.
 I never liked the tone controls on Philcos, using a three or four position switch limits your options as opposed to using a pot. On a higher end set like a Philco 16, which were supposed to be HiFi, it comes off as being rather cheap, I can only assume that Philco used these things to get out of paying royalties to the evil RCA or some other firm. I have a lowly Canadian Westinghouse model 527 console from 1937 and it has both a switch and a pot for tone control, I think that the pot is for treble and the switch for bass, and it's a five tube set, the 1936 models had the same.
Regards
Arran