[Electrothaumaturgist]

Excellent suggestion!!! Then there lies another problem... I'll have to get another Philco .05 condenser tube to re-stuff

[Electrothaumaturgist]

So, there is an error on the parts list, #84...HHMMM...

[Electrothaumaturgist]

    Making good progress  Caps restuffed and resistors replaced (for the most part) on the left side

[Electrothaumaturgist]

Another small discrepancy in the schematics... bakelite capacitor, parts list#31 shows a single .3uf, part# 6287DG. Schematics show a single .3uf also. In the actual rf section is a double .15uf, part# 6287DU.  but, they put a jumper from lugs 2 to 3 to acquire .3   They must have run out of .3's at the factory perhaps? Not really a problem, but thought I'd make a note of it.    Was this rather common practice if parts ran low? Thanks.
Jim

[Ron Ramirez]

No, in those days a single 0.3 uF capacitor would have been too large to fit in the bakelite block shells so they used two 0.15 uF capacitors, connected the two in parallel, and voila - 0.3 uF.

Today, 0.33 uF (modern equivalent to 0.3 uF) 630 WVDC metalized film caps are usually small enough to fit inside, depending upon the manufacturer as some still will not fit. So then it become a matter of personal choice - to replace with one 0.33 uF or two 0.15 uF caps in parallel.

[Electrothaumaturgist]

Thanks very much, Ron. That makes perfect sense, but is slightly odd that I don't recall ever having to deal with that, although I must have at some point, but just don't remember... Yes, the new .33 fits in the housing just fine, and as I've heard here many times before: "it's not a museum piece, so just make it work!" Aside from those nice looking blue resistors though, I am re-stuffing all caps, and with the nice metal can and condenser that arrived today, (THANK YOU KIRK), the topside will at least look period appropriate! That makes me really happy! 

[Electrothaumaturgist]

    Trying to undo the 1946 repairs where #102 on schematics  shows a double electrolytic (can) that was replaced with a single 8uf can on top, then another 8uf underneath. Re-stuffed a double can, and made connections to replace subs. No problem. Part #98 shows a single 18uf can which was replaced with a double 8uf, with the leads tied together to make 16uf. Re-stuffing a can now for that. No problem. They removed that .25uf (#101) along with the 3,000 ohm resistor (#100) So...according to the schematics, the positive side of the 8uf (#102) is connected to the .25 cap, in series with the 3,000 ohm resistor (#100), to the positive side of the 18uf (#98). YES?  I need to know if I'm looking at that 10uf (part of # 102) correctly, as the positive leg appears to be going to ground... Is this chassis ground, or negative bias connected to a terminal strip? On the bakelite cap (#72), there is a 1meg resistor going to a chassis ground lug very near the electrolytic cans that also has part of a wire that was cut off. Am I safe to assume that the positive of the 10uf (#102) was grounded there? These crummy schematics are giving me dyslexia and vertigo. Any help is appreciated.

[Radioroslyn]

>. YES?
Yes.

> correctly, as the positive leg appears to be going to ground...
Yes.

>Is this chassis ground
Yes.

> the positive of the 10uf (#102) was grounded there?
Don't know, doesn't matter as long as it's at chassis ground.

[Electrothaumaturgist]

Thanks Terry! I assumed this was the case, but wanted to be sure before proceeding, as the way they have the substitute parts wired into the set in no way matches the schematics, and seems counter-intuitive. 

Jim

[Electrothaumaturgist]

O.K. Back to that rectangular "mystery box"... I've replaced almost all capacitors (except micas and the incorrectly listed ones in the replacement parts list, but I know where they are) and I've tracked down all the parts on the schematics, along with locating the components in the chassis, comparing all to the schematic #'s. All is well, EXCEPT for that lousy box. It is not on the schematics, however, on the box itself is the part # 30-4549. It has 3 leads: one goes to the terminal on the choke, another goes to the other terminal at the choke, and the third goes to a lug at a 3 terminal tie point where #60 and #62 resistors are located. Maybe I'm overlooking the obvious (wouldn't be the first time), But I just don't see it on these schematics. Maybe there was an addendum to the schematics, or part of that ancient repair in 1946? I tried looking for that part # but must have been looking in the wrong section. The chassis is virtually done; all caps baked and re-stuffed, also resistors and cans finished. Just need new RF mounts, a couple of caps & resistors that were out of stock when I purchased my components, and a power cord to finish the electrical... Coincidentally, at the choke is where they cut that .25 cap and 3,000 ohm resistor out. I have since installed a new .25 cap and 3,000 ohm resistor there across the two leads of the choke. (Hopefully that is correct, according to the schematics). I just checked the resistance of #60 & #62 to ground (which are tied together at the lug), and it measures 27,500 ohms. Shall I remove this thing once and for all?

Jim

[Radioroslyn]

> I just checked the resistance of #60 & #62 to ground (which are tied together at the lug), and it measures 27,500 ohms.
Measure across each resistor as they don't have any relation to the chassis. They are in the hv circuit.
As for your unknown cap you open it up to have a peek inside. You may find #100, 67 and 101 inside.

[Electrothaumaturgist]

No opine?  Hmmm... KK.  I'm ripping it out as there seems to be no way to verify exactly what value that thing was originally. I certainly don't see it on the schematics. 

[Electrothaumaturgist]

Thanks again, Terry. That HAD to be the 1946 repair, as where the cap 101 originally was, there is a nice curve in the above wires where the .25 used to be. I like my repairs better, as it cleans the undercarriage up nicely!

[Electrothaumaturgist]

Not to mention, as I said, those 2 new resistors, 60 & 62 tied together at one point equal 27,000 ohms, much too high for the 3,000 ohms it's supposed to be, as shown in the schematics, as I'll bet it measured around 30,000 at one point in the past, and perhaps the tech read it wrong, thinking it 3,000 ohms instead, putting wire #3 there to catch the (incorrect) resistance. Or am I off-base? And no, I didn't say those two resistors were going to ground. I just checked the resistance of the combined 2 to ground, they are just terminated at the lug together.

[Radioroslyn]

??? one is 32,000 (32K) and the other is  99,000 (common value  100K)
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymodel...013232.pdf