[PhilcoPhan1936]

Next on the bench is a Model 16, Code 121.

I believe I was able to get the values for everything from available paperwork.
The only thing questionable was the values on the tone control, due to the print being so small on the schematic.
I have .09, .15 and .5 as the values. This is part 30-4033, #79 on the parts list, and #80 lists caps as part of 79, part number 06713.

Can anyone confirm the values needed for the tone control?

Also, the large square capacitor filter can. I have the values, but no diagram of the pin connections for each of the capacitors. Can anyone fill me in?
Also, as in the Model 20, should I just use the 600v/630v standard film caps instead of electrolytics?

Thanks for any help.

[EdHolland]

Jeff,

I'll check my notes for the 16X restoration to see if they are appropriate for the tone control.

The big filter can - one can use film caps at 630 V. I'll check my paperwork for the pin connections. Letters through A, B, C, D, E if I recall correctly. One of the 6 terminals has no internal connection.

Regards,

Ed

[PhilcoPhan1936]

I'm working on rebuilding the black Bakelite tubs. I have an anomaly. Cap #52 on the paperwork indicates a 7296G here, which is a dual with .05 and a .002 installed.
Instead, in the chassis is a 3903AH installed, which is a single .01. I can find no documentation that mentions this change, but it is a factory install as near as I can tell. My instinct tells me to go ahead and leave this block in place, and just recap it with a new .01.

Is this a mistake in the paperwork, or do I have the wrong paperwork for this run?
Following is the list, schematic and under chassis diagram papers I am working from.

Comments?

[Image: https://farm1.staticflickr.com/925/42980...bd95_z.jpg]

[Image: https://farm1.staticflickr.com/926/42980...85ea_z.jpg]

[Image: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1761/4298...bd13_z.jpg]

[EdHolland]

Hi Jeff, Sorry I haven't had time to look. I'll consult my notes again. At the bottom of the service sheet, there is a note about changes to certain Bakelite caps including a 7296G, but I cannot read the associated chassis part numbers on this web page.

My chassis is an early 16X, 5 band, so things might be different. I will look it up tonight. I also have notes from the rebuild, and there were differences in the block caps from the part numbers shown in my service data.

Ed

[Electrothaumaturgist]

I ran into that on the 38-1 and a couple other radios a time or two. The parts list was different than what the schematics showed and it could have been a change during mid-run, or an error on schematics, etc... but most anomalies like this seemed to involve line filters and 1,000 volt caps.

[PhilcoPhan1936]

Hi Jeff, Sorry I haven't had time to look. I'll consult my notes again. At the bottom of the service sheet, there is a note about changes to certain Bakelite caps including a 7296G, but I cannot read the associated chassis part numbers on this web page.

My chassis is an early 16X, 5 band, so things might be different. I will look it up tonight. I also have notes from the rebuild, and there were differences in the block caps from the part numbers shown in my service data.

Ed

Ed,

I was browsing through docs I have downloaded pertaining to Philco, and found a PDF compiling Service bulletins of changes made that mention some of the anomalies I've run into . The only thing I still need is the pin diagram of the big block can capacitor.
Thanks for your time and help.

[Nathan Slingerland]

Hi Jeff,

It looks like you need Philco Service Bulletin 165B.

[PhilcoPhan1936]

Hi Jeff,

It looks like you need Philco Service Bulletin 165B.

Nathan,

Thank you so much!
Exactly what I needed!

[PhilcoPhan1936]

This is coming along nicely. All the bakelite blocks are done, electrolytics are done, but still need to finish hooking up, and the large multi-cap can is recapped and hooked back up.  

While I'm on this, the owner wanted to look into adding a jack for plugging in an external audio source. I have a 1/8" cut-off jack to install. Would I interrupt the connection at the 5K (R56) Resistor, or on the other side, at the .01 (C57) cap?
Schematic marked for reference:

[Image: https://farm1.staticflickr.com/847/42776...fe6f_k.jpg]

[Radioroslyn]

Break it at the top of the volume control right next to the #55.

--

[PhilcoPhan1936]

I couldn't get the connection to work properly, so Scott opted to leave it original.
Thanks for the tip anyway.
I did the alignment last night, and it is on it's way home now, reinstalled back in its cabinet.