[rfeenstra]

Hiding a parallel resistor is something I have done several times and , as you say, is quite inconspicuous.   Hiding and tying in a series resistor is a bit more difficult.  Those large dog bones are low in resistance and have to dissipate a bit of heat.  Putting in a modern replacement would certainly be the easiest.  I'm thinking that will be the route I will follow.

[morzh]

Yes, I always replace those that go too low in value. But in my experience it only happens to the large ones in the power divider. Invariably.

[morzh]

Messy capacitor #22. It is under the power wirewound and so it oozed. I couldn't push it out despite using Steve's tool, so I had to scrape it out and then vacuum and clean it before stuffing.

[morzh]

Finished tubular and blocks recapping.
The cap #54 in my case was 0.047uF which makes my chassis Code 121. The 122 has 0.09uF.
The cap is supposed to have the #53 resistor of 10 kOhm going to it for the Volume pot tone compensation, but it was cut off at both the pot tap and the capacitor. Whether it was because they decided to not fix it (which makes me wonder - the caps were all original so fixing would involve changing or cutting all of them, though nothing other than electrolytics was replaced) because it is deep under the second mounting board and is not easy to access, and maybe due to it really affecting the quality of the sound.....or because the pot is 500K with 127K tap and not a 350K pot with 75K tap.....I do not know.
I restuffed it with 0.047uF cap as for 121 Code and put the 10K resistor back.

The pot has a brass bushing between it and the chassis and it seems to be an integral part of that pot. Whether it is original or not - that I do not know. The bushing makes it fit the intricate mounting scheme that is employed in this radio.
I intend to use 500V electrolytics instead of those 450V that are there now. I am thinking whether I want to restuff the cans that were there (cut off) or simply put them in clamps and keep the axials under the chassis. Feeling a bit lazy......but that might change.

[rfeenstra]

I'll re-stuff mine even though they are not original.  Cap 62 had been replace with a single section cap and a radial under the chassis.  I'll figure out a way to put an additional terminal on the single section cap and make it a dual section.  I'm missing the Bakelite cap 54 so I'll have to put a terminal strip and a tubular there.  I don't have a junk box with extra Bakelite caps!  I'm still pondering the idea of making a couple of the larger dog bones that are low in value.  I've never done it so there has to be a first time!

By the way, my volume control has the long bushing as well.

[morzh]

I wonder if my values in the Volume pot just rose proportionately: 500/127 is about 4 and 350/75 is about 4.6. Just worn out?

As for the #54 cap: since it is from the tap to the GND and the lower pot's terminal is soldered to the GND right there, you could simply make a rigid RC and soldered it right there, no need for the backelite block, especially fully concealed by the component board.

[rfeenstra]

Mine's a 1 meg pot with a 300K tap!  Such variation.  How does that affect the effect of the 10K / .047 RC network?

[Ron Ramirez]

I've never seen a volume control on a 45, 28 or 29 that didn't have the bushing.

[morzh]

1M / 300K tap - also could be the same resistor well-worn.

[rfeenstra]

No doubt.  The part number on the part corresponds to the parts list which is supposed to be 350K.  that part number does not appear in the Philco 1936 parts list so I assume they had a replacement available.  I wonder what value that might have been.  I'll try it as is and see what it does.  If it works as is, I'll leave it.

[morzh]

It will work as is as long as there is end to end continuity. The tone comp will be off, but so will mine, though a bit less, and it yet will have to be noticed.

[morzh]

Hmmm.... the speaker is on a rubber grommet.....wobbly.....the grommet is all hardened.
Never saw speakers bolted to chassis through grommets.

[rfeenstra]

I replaced them with the typical Philco tuner grommets from Renovated radios.  Used the same ones for the tuner but they are a little thin.  Used some washers to raise the tuner from the chassis a bit to make the shaft line up with the hole in the cabinet.

[morzh]

Oh....speaking of the tuner. I will need the stringing diagram. It is not in the Rider's. The string itself is missing too. I have the string, just will need the diagram.

[Paul Philco322]

It will sound "big" when done I have a 45L in the lowboy cabinet, sounds bigger than it is. 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/92577012@N...ed-public/

Paul