[Arran]

Mike;
  I have heard about some one and two Watt resistors that are brown just like the older style ones, though obviously they are not molded from brown phenolic like the old carbon comp ones are. I think they are made by Vishay, the only issue is that they are lacking in the higher resistance values, though I think they do go up to 470K. I may have to acquire some, even the voltage ratings look good for tube equipment, like TV sets.
  Regarding the toaster overs, I think I had the two or three I have just given to me, or they were out at the end of a driveway with a free sign, people do that sort of thing here with unwanted items rather then bother with a garage sale, or taking them to a thrift shop, many of which are fussy about donations. You could probably get a used one from a thrift store, or garage sale, if you were not on the other side of the continent I would give you one.
Regards
Arran

[morzh]

Arran

These to me, made by Kamaya, look as close to the original as anything today does.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/791-RC1-2106KTB/

The body color is brown.

And this one is 10M, this radio has one. I bought a full range of Megaohm ones - 1M, 2.2M, 4.7M and 10M. They are 1/2W which is just as well, as at this resistance this does not even matter.

[morzh]

Finished the paper caps.
Whew.
I depleted my supply of 0.01uF caps. And even after reordering I am left with maybe 10pcs.
And almost out of my brown glue sticks. This radio sure have quite a few tubulars.
Now to the twistlocks. It is 3 of them.Though only one is twistlocked, the other two are held by spring snap clips.

[morzh]

Two days ago finished the recap.

Today turned it on. The B+ is good, and there is audio in audio - I can hear the volume pot scratchiness and some hum. And the B+ droops a bit after warm-up which is good. It disappears fast after turn-off after the warm-up.
But. No stations so far.
I looked at the switches - they are black. It is hard to reach into so I just sprayed the heck out of it with Deoxit D, and exercised the switches 10 times each.
Now it is drying.

[morzh]

After a night of drying the Deoxit I turned it on today.
It was scratchy and rumbly as heck.
I touched the tubes....heard the sounds. Took he tubes out and scraped the contacts.
It seemed at the time as if that did the job: I tuned into my local station at the usual tuning cap position and it sounded fine. Not that I am very impressed with the speaker out of the cabinet but then it is just that, out of the cabinet.

Then I switched into FM, SW and back and the rumbling and scratch returned only to disappear after exercising the switches. SO maybe they need some more exercise.

Now, the speaker cone has a bit of crack in it, not even sure how something like this can appear, but I took care of it with a but of rubber cement.

Two questions:

1. Here is the pic of the speaker.
What do those patches of thermal insulation doing there between the cone and the basket? Are those by design or did someone try to remedy something?
   

2. One pilot light bulb is burnt. It says GE 54 (if here is anything else I cannot tell). The other bulb is OK and it says GE 1445.
I put in type 47 (I think) - it has the same bayonet base, and it works fine; I am sure these supposed to be 6.3V. The 1445 is very dim. I suspect it is not 6.3V. It looks exactly as the burnt one.

   


Does anyone know what bulbs were there originally? Cannot find in the BOM.

[rfeenstra]

I have been known to stuff a bit of cloth between the cone and basket of a speaker whose voice coil was rubbing (warped cone). A temporary measure until a replacement could be obtained.

I use that bulb in Allen Organs. 12-14 volt.

[morzh]

Rob,

Yes, it is 14.4V bulb. I wonder if this what is supposed to be here. It obviously is pretty dim, working at 1/4 intended power.

I have not heard any rubbing so far but then I have not been trying to see if it rubs. The music seems to be fine.
If I find out it does, I guess I could either send it to be re-coned, or leave it be.
Will depend on how much I get to like it. I already have a nice radio with a changer and FM. The Grundig.
So.....this one I got 2 years prior to the Grundig. Else I might not go for it. So spending a lot of money (I have already spent quite a bit between the cap and the tubes) was not the plan.
Ok we will see about that.

[rfeenstra]

Hey, it has the same base, right? Must be the correct lamp!

[morzh]

Same base. But 47 also has the same base and fits well, and shines as it should as it is 6.3V. The glass is elongated instead of round but if it fits that's fine.
My question is, was there a 14.4V lamp in the first place, so to make it dimmer and cooler, or was there 6.3V lamp?

[morzh]

Found that the rumbling was there because of the packet switch that did not quite get back into the position after depressing the FM button. Some WD40 fixed the issue and that symptom disappeared.
Also it seems that the switch needed cleaning. I used some alcohol, and then after touching some contacts I heard some FM. I sprayed it with Deoxid D and exercised it a bit. Hopefully that will fix the issue also.

Another....well, not a problem per se, but problem nevertheless: the dial is mounted on the cabinet and is separate from the chassis. Not sure what the best way is to move it to the chassis, align the radio and then move it back without distorting the alignment.

[RodB]

Hi Mike,

I've had this before, no marks on the dial. I aligned the radio by putting the chassis in the cabinet, setting the tuning cap to minimum and noting the dial frequency reference at the pointer. Then find the alignment frequencies and measure the distance of those frequencies from the reference. Now, with the chassis out of the cabinet, you can mark the reference freq. on the dial and continue the alignment using the measurements.

[morzh]

Rod, thanks. I also think I might mark min and max on the reflection plate. Good question how I would mark it with the glass. And the bolts have a bit of play.

As I said in the beginning, this is an extremely cumbersome affair, this radio; just taking the chassis out was an adventure.
Then again, I might not even bother align top and bottom, just check the IF alignment to peak the sensitivity and ne done with it.

[rfeenstra]

"Same base. But 47 also has the same base and fits well, and shines as it should as it is 6.3V."

Yes mike. I was being facetious. So many people thing that if it looks right, it must be right. Wrong!!!

[morzh]

Rob

Now I see

This is why I would like to know what was there originally. Riders (I have the full, two shelves) does not have it. Even though it has 5 schematics, one for each band or mode of operation.
It also seems to list one lamp that is in parallel to 110VAC, or I am missing something.

Anywho. Maybe Ron could help. Or I would have to go to ARF and ask there......there's been a few 46-1213 restored by people in there.

[Ron Ramirez]

Well...I'm sitting in the cancer center about to receive the poison...but I have a laptop and lots of time to kill so I did a little research.

The Nostagia Air service info includes lots of "clarified" schematics but not a full schematic.

We need to look here:
https://philcoradio.com/library/download...6-1947.pdf

Obviously it is a 6.3 volt filament circuit which the dial lamps are connected to.

Here is the bulb I am using these days:
https://www.pinballlife.com/ablaze-premi...-dome.html

LED lamps with miniature bayonet bases, in your choice of colors. Most will prefer Warm White which produces the same color temperature of an incandescent bulb. I prefer Cool White...just because.

The Pinball Life LEDs will illuminate your dial much better than those old incandescents ever did. As an extra bonus, they use less current and will probably last as long as you do.