[7chip7]

Thank you Terry, I will go ahead and hook it up for a brief smoke test . You folks are all a great help, I do try to research these parts using the library before I ask any questions, I guess in my 74 years of age, I'm still learning.
Regards Chip

[RodB]

Just as a reminder, you are now sending B+ to the field coil and opt primary on those exposed terminals.

[7chip7]

your right, i learned that kind of lessen a few times in my day, we will keep one hand behind my back.
chip

[7chip7]

In the attached schematic, the ac switch wiring is a little confusing , I do not think one side of switch puts one side of ac cord to ground. Also am I correct by putting the tone lug on the switch in between the two caps 40 and 41?
Chip

[RodB]

Two unrelated things. The dashed line indicates that the two controls are mechanically linked. When you turn on the power switch you are also moving the tone switch from off to bass. Move the switch once again you short out cap 41, giving less bass. Since you brought up the power switch, it's usually better to have the line filter on the other side of the switch and connect the hot side of the line cord to the switch. This way the power is truly off until the switch is activated on. Sometimes doing the rewire is not practical, then you must make a decision about whether or not you want power on the line filter whenever the set is plugged in. I have a couple chassis in my workroom with black corners from the sad result of exploded line caps.

[7chip7]

I had been boggle minded about that switch for days now, but after reading what you just posted got me thinking, so I investigated what you said a bit with a meter, and by golly you are indeed right, by switching the switch 2 times, it shorts the .03 to ground, by switching once it turns on the radio and uses the .03 cap filter for bass. Its been years back to my day of wiring complex switches. Reminds me of the 3 way light switch, if you don't know how it seems impossible but once you know how, its actually very simple.
Thanks again man, I just don't want to get it working, I want to understand whats going on as I have another Philco to do after this one (a battery set).
Much appreciated
Chip

[RodB]

Glad to help. Battery sets are delicate.

[Radioroslyn]

Battery set are fun. And if you can run them off of batteries rather than an eliminator you'll separate yourself from a lot of line noise.

I like to imagine to history of the set. The last time it was powered up (if it's form the '30s) was probably a long long time ago. Was it owned by someone who didn't have AC power to their house/shack out in the hills of nowhere? Candles and kerosene lamps for light at night?  Just think after a busy day on the farm the sun is going down and you are in the easy chair. Pipe in hand w/your favorite blend in it. Click on the radio and tune in Suspense! or The Phil Harris Alice Faye Show. Dowsing off to sleep to awake the next morning to start another day. What a life...

A lot of battery sets Philco included use a dual switch. One switch controls the filament voltage and other the B voltages. Some of the early sets from the '20s they just turn off the filament assuming that if the filament in off there is going to no B current flow. Maybe, I had a set that had a leaky bypass cap in the B circuit and with the set off it drained my new B batteries flat. These where the real ones not the 9v jobs snapped together, this was back in the '70s you could still get the big ones for a price.

[7chip7]

I managed to get the power supply and the Amp wiring done, I replaced all the resistors in that section as well as all the caps. I double checked all the wiring and hooked the org speaker up and decided to do a quick smoke test, I was amazed when I herd radio signals come in on both shortwave band as well as the AM band. With just a short 1 foot antenna I picked up stations loud and clear and the bass filter worked like a dream.  The voltages seemed all normal and there was no hum from the power line. The speaker has 2 very small hole in it and I will repair them (I read from the library about speaker repair. I have a gallon of Thompson Water seal, so I may use that to renew the very fragile cone.  I am so happy that the field coil is OK.  
I sure am grateful for all the help I got from you wonderful folks, Philco Radios are  tricky to work on and I am looking forward to get working on another Philco I have, its a battery set (model 40-95).
I will be cleaning the rest of the chassis and adjusting the front end etc. Will keep ya posted
Thanks again
Chip.

[7chip7]

I have been working on the speaker from my 37-61. There were a few very small cuts and I repaired using Elmer's white glue, and also coated around the rim with the glue. Seemed to work well. I replaced the 3 wires with new. The field coil is good and so is the rest of the speaker. I put it to the test with the radio and worked like a dream. Se attached photos.
Chip