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Hi and welcome,
On the Bakelite block caps as time progressed Philco used less and less of them. Early sets may have ten or more. I'm working on a model 90 from '31, it has 8 in it. By the late '30s Philco was just using them for the ac line bypass which is the case in your set. Mostly your set has tubular caps which probably don't have the value marked but a part number. You'll have to check it against the schematic and parts list.
Looks like someone tried to clean the dial... You'll be needing a dial https://www.radiodaze.com/philco-37-61-27-5205/ Another quick check you can do is measure the resistance between pins 2 and 3 on the 42 tube. Should see a several hundred ohms, if not the opt is suspect. Or if you have a 6F6 instead of the 42 it would be pins 3 and 4.
If you are good w/color there's hope for the front panel. The good new is that the black/gold lines are pretty much in tacked. The other black lines and browns take a good eye to recreate but it could be made to look a whole lot better than what it is now.
https://philcoradio.com/library/download...%20246.pdf
GL
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
(This post was last modified: 12-12-2023, 01:16 AM by Radioroslyn.)
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Terry, thank you for the comeback. my wife is an artist and she feels she may be able to make it look pretty good (at least better than it is.) One thing I did notice is someone put a 5y3 rectifier in the radio and it should be a 5y4, the plate pins for 5y4 are 3 and 5, the 5y3 are 4 and 6, the 5y3 has no pins 3 and 5. So maybe someone changed the wiring, I will have to check that. You mentioned tube 42, but the 37-61 has all 8 pin octal tubes.
Chip
The process of learning is to fix something that is not broke.
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Welcome to the Phorum, Chip! I've seen much worse cabinets turn into showpieces. In looking at the photos I would seriously consider making a new wiring harness for the speaker. I cringe any time I see frayed wires and electrical tape! Take care and BE HEALTHY! Gary
"Don't pity the dead, pity the living, above all, those living without love."
Professor Albus Dumbledore
Gary - Westland Michigan
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Yup those new '37 models have those the self centering tubes (aka octals) '36 model use the older standard base tubes. On the 5Y4 vs 5Y3 I think you'll find in the socket that there are no receptacles for the tube pins come in contact with, they have been deleted. You have to use a 5Y4 or a 5Y3 w/an adapter. The 37-61 is an up dated version of the older model 60 that started back in '33. Edited previous post to reflect proper tube pins.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
(This post was last modified: 12-12-2023, 01:18 AM by Radioroslyn.)
Posts: 35
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City: Seaford
State, Province, Country: DElaware
I Have the chassis on the bench where I can do a better visual inspection. The top of the chassis is very dirty and dusty, but the underside is very clean, so I am going to get some of those bad caps replaced. I notice there are 2 block caps in this thing, so I will check the parts list to identify them. Its going to take some time to get this thing to the smoke test.
Thank you so much for the reply's, you folks are great
Regards Chip
The process of learning is to fix something that is not broke.
Posts: 5,088
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City: Wilsonville
State, Province, Country: OR
Welcome to the Phorum!
Two pieces of info on the Bakelite block caps:
https://philcoradio.com/library/index.ph...lock-data/
https://philcoradio.com/library/index.ph...soldering/
I generally unsolder the block completely, just easier for me but the technique works fine.
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Bob , just so happens I just started dealing with the 1st block (3793 DG) .015, .015, 600v, got the info from the 1st link you gave me, now I am going to try to rebuild.
Great info, and very helpful
Regards
Chip
The process of learning is to fix something that is not broke.
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Once you’ve done one or two of those it’s not all that difficult.
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City: Greenlawn
State, Province, Country: NY
A great method of getting the old caps out of the block, very well presented!
"Do Justly, love Mercy and walk humbly with your God"- Micah 6:8
Best Regards,
MrFixr55
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City: Seaford
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I used Bobs method of removing the insides of the 2 block caps in my 37-61 and it worked like a dream, thanks again Bob, I now feel like a pro (LOL).
Chip
The process of learning is to fix something that is not broke.
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City: Omak
State, Province, Country: WA
Hello Guys,
Yes, I too do what Bob does I find it easier to remove it from the radio .
Sincerely Richard
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Just FYI The thread I referred to was written by Morzh as a “how to”.
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With Bobs method I first took a knife and scraped the wax on the bottom a bit to remove some of the dry brittle wax and it seemed to help it come out better.
Chip
The process of learning is to fix something that is not broke.
Posts: 35
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Joined: Dec 2023
City: Seaford
State, Province, Country: DElaware
I have a bit of a dilemma that concern the rectifier tube in my 37-61 , the model calls for a 5Y4 rectifier, but my radio came with a 5Y3 , the socket is also set up for a 5Y3, I am wondering if some of the 37-61s ever came from the factory with 5Y4s or did someone rewire it. I know even though the 2 tubes do the same thing but the pin outs are different . The cant be interchanged without changing the wiring. I never would noticed this if my radio hadn't come with the rectifier tube, I would have gone by what the schematic and documents said.
Chip
The process of learning is to fix something that is not broke.
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