And, some 10 years after I bought it at Kutztown's, I took the 9V battery and checked my E-speaker.
It worked, as promised.
So, I have something to check the radio.
I do not want to solder the cable in before labelling it, else I would attempt the power-up today/tomorrow.
But tomorrow is my tax day, so I will be busy for at least 3-4 hours.
Next week then.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
So, I asked Pat (the guy who now makes Arbe power supplies) about the connections.
Thing is, the ARBE documentation suggests connecting "+20" wire to +22V. Which is reasonable.
Except that the actual AK's own manual "AK Open mounted style Radio Receiving Sets", as well as some other existing schematics by 3rd parties suggest connecting it to 45V (the midpoint of the two 45-V serialized batteries).
He promised to investigate.
Anyone has experience with it?
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
I have used an ARBEIII to power an AK10C.(?) Model Connect as described in the manual for A+, A-. For B+ for all tubes except the detector, use 90V. If you have a 5 conductor power cable with a separate B- conductor, connect it to B-. If you have a 4 wire cable, jumper A- to B- at the ARBE. (There are a few different versions of the Model 10 but all Model 10s connect A- to B-, either internally or externally.)
For the detector, if using an 01A or 112, use 45V. If using a 00A as a detector, use 22.5V. I have used these voltages with both different tubes and they work.
These sets use a "grid leak" detector, as did all A-K Breadboards and the AKs battery and AC sets up to and including the 55. Whether using 22V or 45V for the detector depends on the tube used for the detector. If using a 200 ("Soft tube, not full vacuum, w/ a little argon) as the detector, you need only 20 or so volts. They used terms 20 and 40V but nominal voltage for B batteries and the ARBE is 22.5 and 45V. I guess because the used the batteries until the voltage dropped to less than 20 V / 40V for a 22.5V / 45V B Battery. For the 01A as a grid leak detector, the RCA Receiving Tube Manual Version RC10 (1930) recommends 45V plate voltage. By 1930, the 00 and 00A were obsolete. The same version of the RCA receiving Tube manual lists max B+ voltage for the 00A to be 45V but every instruction manual for every radio using a 00 or 00A that I read (and I have several that can use a 00A) lists the B+ voltage at 22.5V This has been my experience.
The Model 10 has no provision for C- without modifying the precious detector 2 stage amp "TA Island" (I call them precious because the island alone goes for between $250 and $400 on ePay). Adding -4.5V V to the audio stages would improve fidelity. Neither did the Big Box Model 20, but the 20 C (Compact) had that option. RCA published a mod for the Westinghouse RC which originally used 45V on the Audio Amp tubes with no C-, but with 90V to drive a horn, they recommended adding C-.
Hope this helps.
"Do Justly, love Mercy and walk humbly with your God"- Micah 6:8
"Let us begin to do good"- St. Francis
I missed part of the thread. Touching, how you got into electronics. My dad totally supported my experimentation. When I sent you the schematic of the 10C, I forgot that you had the 10A. However, my last post does hold up. There is a warning to not hook up the ground to the negative battery terminal in the 10A the ground connection was the center post of the standalone rheostat between the first and second stage. This is interesting; it seems to be used to adjust the bias on the RF stages. The legs of that rheostat go between A+ and A-. There must have been a mid model mod, as there is no ground post in the AK installation guide, it's a white wire in a 6 wire harness but your set seems to match the Radiomuseum diagram for the "10A with cable". If you have a 5 wire harness cable, the green(B-) and black (A-) are tied together at the radio, red is A+, yellow is B+ for the detector and brown is B+ for the rest of the tubes.
Hope this helps.
"Do Justly, love Mercy and walk humbly with your God"- Micah 6:8
"Let us begin to do good"- St. Francis
I decided to go with 5-wire harness, as the original was. They had two wires together, the Green and the Black (B- and GND).
So, this is the bottom:
Then I dressed the cable. I unwrapped the original cable
and reused the wrap on the new one to bandage the end that goes towards the battery. The other end received a heatshrink to dress the braid.
And the Batteruy/ARBE end is this:
So, all is ready to start.
PS. And, yes, the GND which is usually the White wire in the original document (they show a 6-conductor cable somehow) is separate (why they did not show it as coming from the GND post....I think even with 10A there were variations).
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
I have three Brothers: HR-10, HR-15 and a label printer
All work but only the latter gets to see some use nowadays: I have no RS-232 interface on my computer for the other two.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
One of my "projects" is to be able to have all my 1920s battery radios plugged into common power supplies via harnesses that have Molex connectors that I can merely unplug the radio from the harness to service, clean, continue restoration, etc. Each radio will have a "pigtail" that plugs into the harness. All will be connected and I merely need to have the power supply (ARBEIII) and the desired radio on.
The problem is that 4 of my radios (A-K 10, FADA 160, Federal F10 and Radiola 16) tie A- to B-. The same power supply can't supply A voltage to sets where A- is tied to B- and where A+ is tied to B-, as that would cause a short circuit. Therefore, I will use 2 separate A supplies.
"Do Justly, love Mercy and walk humbly with your God"- Micah 6:8
"Let us begin to do good"- St. Francis
Mike, you can get USB to Serial adaptors cheaply to all you to use the other printers. When I was an FSE, this became a problem as we had a lot of serial interfaces on our instrumentation. RS232 may have been antiquated (What, 60 years old now?) but for us, serial interfaces were much safer than networking. Since we only sent data via the serial interfaces, we could make it that no executables, malware, etc. could be downloaded.
It also helped that until some of our newer systems, we used esoteric operating systems such as QNX. We even had one instrument that was introduced in 2000 that ran on DOS 6.3! We had instruments using 8080 processors until 2000, and Z8000 processors till 2020. When we started using PC type computers, it became a nightmare because of the short lifecycles of commercially available PCs. Since we were FDA regulated, the procedures that we needed to use to validate changes to our instruments, software, etc, could run into millions of dollars.
"Do Justly, love Mercy and walk humbly with your God"- Micah 6:8
"Let us begin to do good"- St. Francis
So, today I connected the radio to ARBE, connected the GND to an outlet's GND, used a piece of wire for antenna (I do not have a really long one) , put UX-201A in all 5 sockets, connected the "E" AK speaker and started the radio.
There was some weak noise, looks like RF, then at some position of one of the tuning caps the radio started generating. As if it were a sinewave sound oscillator. The other two tuned circuits would make it louder, the potentiometer could make it weaker or disappear.
I spent overall 20 minutes with it, but no station, just that whistle.
Good news is, the speaker and the amp work.
I think I will try to put BC band modulated signal through, see what comes of it.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
![[-]](https://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/bootbb/collapse.png "[-]")
