[cmhsr]

Any help on how to connect the two wires to the new capacitor would be appreciated.

[cmhsr]

The wires are connected as you suggest. I cut them off at the bottom of the Electrolytic capacitor can. Both were connected to the same single pole coming out of the bottom of the can. The new capacitor has two leads, one on each end. Do I connect both wires to one end and ground the other or does each end get one of the wires?
Chuck

Got it connected. Thanks do I delete this thread until my next question .

[Ron Ramirez]

Sorry I couldn't get back with you right away. Congratulations on conquering the problem!

No, please leave the thread here if you don't mind. Thanks

[cmhsr]

Sorry I couldn't get back with you right away. Congratulations on conquering the problem!

No, please leave the thread here if you don't mind. Thanks

Wii do. I'm sure more ? Will come up as I go along.
Chuck

[cmhsr]

Sorry I couldn't get back with you right away. Congratulations on conquering the problem!

No, please leave the thread here if you don't mind. Thanks

Wii do. I'm sure more ? Will come up as I go along.
Chuck

Ron
Got the three electrolytic caps replaced. Now getting strong humm throu speaker . Going to start replacing remaining caps. Is ther one that relates to the humm if so I could start there.
Chuck

[cmhsr]

Replaced electrolytic caps, 42, 44 and 20. Number 20 cap is pretty hot to the touch the others not. Should it be.

[Ron Ramirez]

How did you connect (20)? No, it should not be hot at all. It sounds like you may have (20) backwards? That would not only cause the hum, but if connected backwards, that cap would not only get hot, it will explode sooner or later.

The positive lead goes to the junction of resistors (13), ( 18 ) and (19) plus a couple other connections - see schematic; the negative lead goes to chassis ground. If it has been connected backwards, it is ruined and must be replaced.

[cmhsr]

How did you connect (20)? No, it should not be hot at all. It sounds like you may have (20) backwards? That would not only cause the hum, but if connected backwards, that cap would not only get hot, it will explode sooner or later.

The positive lead goes to the junction of resistors (13), ( 18 ) and (19) plus a couple other connections - see schematic; the negative lead goes to chassis ground. If it has been connected backwards, it is ruined and must be replaced.

Ron number is fine it's number 44 that gets warm. I am getting one station but poorly.

[cmhsr]

How did you connect (20)? No, it should not be hot at all. It sounds like you may have (20) backwards? That would not only cause the hum, but if connected backwards, that cap would not only get hot, it will explode sooner or later.

The positive lead goes to the junction of resistors (13), ( 18 ) and (19) plus a couple other connections - see schematic; the negative lead goes to chassis ground. If it has been connected backwards, it is ruined and must be replaced.

Ron number is fine it's number 44 that gets warm. I am getting one station but poorly.

Sorry number 20 is fine it's Cap 44.

[cmhsr]

Ron I suspect concerning Capacitor 44 being hot to the touch could it be that resistor 19 on the schematic is bad, letting to much current through?

[John R]

Ron I suspect concerning Capacitor 44 being hot to the touch could it be that resistor 19 on the schematic is bad, letting to much current through?

Go ahead & check R19 but I really suspect that the three section candohm resistor R43 has an open which would throw the biasing off and not allow a return to ground for C44. John

[cmhsr]

Ron I suspect concerning Capacitor 44 being hot to the touch could it be that resistor 19 on the schematic is bad, letting to much current through?

Go ahead & check R19 but I really suspect that the three section candohm resistor R43 has an open which would throw the biasing off and not allow a return to ground for C44. John

John
I am new to this so I appreciate the help. On the Number 44 Electroyltic cap. it is the can type and had one connection at the bottom and three wires connected to it. The ground simply connected to the can by being inserted under the paper wrap at the bottom of the can. My new Cap is the Aerial type, two wires, do I connect the old three wires to one side of the new cap and what do I connect the neg side to the old ground with or do I leave it alone and connect the old ground wire to the chassis.

[cmhsr]

Ron I suspect concerning Capacitor 44 being hot to the touch could it be that resistor 19 on the schematic is bad, letting to much current through?

Go ahead & check R19 but I really suspect that the three section candohm resistor R43 has an open which would throw the biasing off and not allow a return to ground for C44. John

John
I am new to this so I appreciate the help. On the Number 44 Electroyltic cap. it is the can type and had one connection at the bottom and three wires connected to it. The ground simply connected to the can by being inserted under the paper wrap at the bottom of the can. My new Cap is the Aerial type, two wires, do I connect the old three wires to one side of the new cap and what do I connect the neg side to the old ground with or do I leave it alone and connect the old ground wire to the chassis.

[cmhsr]

Need information on how to disassemble the middle section of my Philco 37-61. Don't know how else to get to the last of the e-caps. Radio is working but still needs some work.

[cmhsr]

I am getting reception on my Philco 37-361 from a simple aerial wire. How do I connect the ground wire. Any help appreciated new to this.
Chuck