[diyahnih]

Hello everyone,

I have some questions about the recapping i am doing on the 46-1201 code 121.

1. Can a 503k replace a .04 mfd cap?

2. Is the C 15 (Rider's) where the 0.25, 275 V safety cap goes--i want to make absolutely sure before i solder it.

3. I soldered the 0.05 safety cap in the C 12 .05 mfd--was this right?

4. On the bottom, left side of the chassis, there was what i believe to be a electrolytic--on this cap it has--code red, 15 mfd, 150 V, Black is Negative, which i replaced with a 15 uf, 160 V electrolytic.
Rider's says it is a R 7--does R stand for resistor?

I replaced 3 electrolytic caps--i am hoping this radio only takes 3, & that i soldered them in the right places.
Can anyone help me on these 4 questions ?

diyahnih

[Texasrocker]

Hello diyahnih. After looking at my riders vol 15 book, (I only found code 122) in print. It is sad JF Riders didnt include a separate "parts-list-by-numbers-with corresponding values" on the Philco model 46-1201 pages. After close inspection of the under chassis photo, with my "reader-glasses on",(Im a old fart), I assertained the following info. Unless I overlooked something, it appears that someone that was not knowledgable has worked on your chassis before. I will explain what I see in the orig schemat.
C 18,19,20 was originally a 3-stage round cardboard type filter (electrolytic-type) filter cap housing all 3 original dry electrolytics in one unit with all (-), The black lead all (-) tied together inside orig caps goes to chassis ground from one-end for all. The other 3 (+) leads are respectively +30uf,+25uf,&+20uf to their respective points on the schemat. If you follow voltage ratings on each individual cap on the orig filters you are replacing, you will be safe on correct voltage tolerances of the orig filter caps.

R7(on riders schematic for this set) .... is not a capacitor at all. According to the photo, it is one of those "old-style" Candohm brand (should be stamped in print on the metal housing) resistors rivited to the side of the chassis that were used in many radios in that era. It should read approx 83 ohms from post-to-post solder points on its top side according to my JF Riders print. Candohm style resistors were'nt the best inventions ever made, but many are still good in the old sets unless they short out (open), or direct short to chassis thru the metal housings holding the resistor inside separated by their orig phenolic paper (grey stiff thin cardboard materials) The "wattage ratings" of the old Candohms varies by size of the originals.
It is AOK to replace a orig .04 uf bypass cap with a .05 as long as the voltage ratings match or exceed orig ratings. Vintage radios are forgiving, so if you dont have the exact matching cap, sub!! (+/- 20% rule)
Hopefully, Ron or Chuck can look up your model 46-1201, and verify. My eyes arent the best anymore, but just trying to help what I can!! Randal

[Ron Ramirez]

Complete service info for Model 46-1201 is available through the Phorum; just click here for all of the details.

[diyahnih]

Texasrocker,

you are right, someone has worked on this radio before--this has what confused me. I thought the schematics/code was wrong--i am comparing a Sam's & Rider's for this radio. Am i right tho on the electrolytic--15 mfd, 160 V, code red, black is neg? I don't think this one should have been in that area, as the metal band that held it was bent & twisted. I am not sure where the safety caps go--so am thinking of just getting compacitors that match the mfd on the remaining caps & put it back together, this is probably why the phono does not work.

diyahnih

[diyahnih]

Ron,

the changes.zip & 461201.zip pages doesn't display in either my firefox or IE6 browsers--are they still there? The pages won't load.

diyahnih

[Texasrocker]

D, according to my Riders manual, R7 is a old style candohm style resistor, and no cap should be in that area of the chassis period. If someone placed a cap there in the past by mistake, cut it loose and get rid of it (keeping notes of where you removed it), then re-consult your schemat. Seems to me you are rebuilding a "previously-hacked" radio chassis. Those are hard to diagnose over the internet!! I have run into many of those in my yrs also!! Look closely at the part I referred you to on my schematic, it should be a old-style metal ( riveted to the chassis) type part ( 83 ohm resistor only). I noticed Ron put up some info for you on his last post. Reading that info should get you informed better. Personally, I dont collect or restore the (record player/radio combos) at all. I never cared for those styles much anyways. Just tryin to help on the schemat of the radio. If your record player still works, once you get your radio-chassis working, you should be in business!! Randal

[diyahnih]

of all the radios to find, buy & recap, i get the one thats hacked

diyahnih

[Ron Ramirez]

Yes, they are still there. Right-click on each link and then choose "Save Link As" (Firefox) or "Save Target As" (IE). This will enable your PC to download each file. Then unzip the file(s), using the built-in unzipping utility of Windows XP or use WinZip. You will also need Adobe Reader to view the files, available at http://www.adobe.com/ .

[Texasrocker]

I would say that about 50% or better of all the vintage tube radios that have crossed my workbench in the past have been "hacked" at some point. I find this to be very common in this hobby. If someone attempted repairs yrs ago that didnt know what they were doing, sure left behind some real-doozies. Anyone that is serious about this hobby of learning to restore vintage radios needs a good knowledge of basic tube electronics of the different stages of radio-circuitry, all proper accurate bench-test equip with full knowledge of how to use them, and a full JF Riders schematic vols 1 -23 (readable) library helps greatly( but still isnt always enough info, and you must be knowledgeable enough to read past those mistakes and seek additional actual prints from the orig mfgrs from individual collectors) that fills in the missing data you are seeking .I have found the internet most valuable in finding the "rare" info, and most folks are more than happy to help nomatter the brand-name of your requests. JF Riders had mistakes also!! I have run into that several times! Either printing mistakes or whatever, after restoring over 100 radios or so will teach newbies what to look for and understanding the JF Riders schemats attempt of being the radio-repair bible. They did best they could, and only printed the "avail info" to them from all the mfgrs-engineers in those days! Reading schematics "properly" takes lots of time & patience also! My old vintage JF Riders books have served me very well, and "saved" MANY hacked sets brought to my shop!! It would be nice if all the vintage radios just needed a good dust-off and a simple "recap" job!! However, after many orig owners of these fine old sets decided to attempt repair themselves, left us future collectors with their hack-jobs with wires left cut, wrong parts in wrong places,missing parts,etc, then once they found out it was less-expensive to go buy a more modern radio, all these "critters" sit in antique stores, antique malls, garage & estate sales,eBay, etc. I never get too-excited about purchasing vintage radios anymore until I pull out my handy small tool-kit at their location, pull the chassis and take a look underneath first. I even pull all the orig tubes and check for good filament continuity before purchasing any vintage tube gear. I have found that most sellers dont mind me checking-first, before I purchase! That way I can judge how much the piece is worth for me before I invest, and can walk away leaving the owners more-knowledgeable about their radios for sale. I have even taught my wife what to check for electronically, and look for all the probs before she purchases, and presents them into our shop for restorations. Be careful what you purchase because most of the time, vintage radios need much-more than a simple "recap"!! The old "rubber coated wire" chassis ALWAYS needs a total point-to-point rewire (or new sleeving) to operate safe in the future, and those type restorations take many,many hours by qualified techs to save!! Be careful what you wish for in purchasing these old vintage radios!! You may get a bag of goods just because it looked good on the outside!! Enjoy the vintage-radio hobby!!! Randal