[Joeztech]

        Since the 40-201 I have was so corroded on top from mouse pee etc., I decided early on that the best way to proceed would be to remove all top-side components and get it ready to paint. Here are a couple of pictures that illustrate the damage in the beginning and the condition now.

The last things I did were to remove the rivets holding the C78 electrolytic capacitor in place and the power transformer. I made sure I made a sketch of the connections for the power transformer first before disconnecting leads.

I probably need to get some naval jelly and treat a few stubborn spots first. Then I will mask off all the sockets and holes in the chassis and follow that with a light coat of primer, then a coat of Krylon Silver Satin paint as Ron suggests. I will loose the ink stamped model and code number lettering plus what I think is the date code and run number, but I have to do something to preserve the chassis for the future. I don't want it to continue to rust.

Of course the wires will have to be secured underneath too.

Joe    

[codefox1]

Can't tell what shape the tube sockets are in, but you should consider dealing with them first if you are not going to knock out the rivits and remove them. If ok after cleaning up, mask well before painting chassis. If below is nasty, and you want it to look nice, not a lot of alternatives but to drill out sockets, etc... and then you have a piece of metal to refinish as you wish. We've all done it 100 ways or more. Best answer is having a nice set in the end that works and pleases you. More questions will get more answers. Very Best!

[Joeztech]

Codefox1;

The tube sockets proved to be OK. They were shielded from the mouse pee by the tubes being in place. I will be covering the sockets with masking tape as well as all the openings, especially over things like the trimmer capacitors. Underneath, the chassis is surprisingly in good shape. The plating there is quite good except for the corner behind the tuning capacitor. I that case the mouse pee did get inside and caused some corrosion. I will clean that area too and probably do some touch up by hand with an artists brush and some of the Krylon Silver Satin paint sprayed in a small bottle cap or something similar.

Right now the weather is cold and damp here - not conducive to painting. Later this week looks to be OK though. Thanks for the encouragement! Have a great day!

Joe

[codefox1]

Very well. Sounds like you will do just fine. I'd use a pipe cleaner and a little Deoxit on the tube sockets before you tape them up just for good measure. Also tape from inside any other various holes in chassis and redo any soldering to chassis if any before spraying.
Best!

[Joeztech]

codefox1;

Yes, I have some Deoxit that I use for my stereo equipment maintenance. It is good to have around. Our cat likes to play with pipe cleaners, so we have a supply of those around.

There are some solder lugs on the top of the chassis that the grounding braid for the tuning capacitor solders to. I plan to cover those with tape before painting too so that soldering the capacitor back in place will not be a problem. Ditto for the ground lugs for the tuning control assembly.

Joe

[Joeztech]

I am having trouble finding the Krylon Silver Satin paint that Ron mentions in his chassis repaint thread. I found an item at my local Ace Hardware called just metallic and the number on the can is 1403, but it is dull aluminum. I tried some and it definitely is not the right kind. I have some Krylon Brilliant Silver no. 51511 which I have not tried yet. The can has a very shiny chrome looking cap on it and I hope it is not that shiny. I looked on Krylon's website and I do not see a product under their metallic paints that is described as Silver Satin type. Can anyone provide a Krylon number? It is usually on the back of the can near the bottom.

Thanks in advance.

Joe

[Arran]

It's called Krylon Brushed Nickel Metallic, at least in Canada, they sell it in Walmart in my area.
Regards
Arran

[Ron Ramirez]

In the US it is called Satin Nickel (not Silver Satin), and I found it at Walmart.

[Joeztech]

Arran and Ron;

Thanks for this extra information. I spotted Krylon Brushed Nickel (did not look at the number on the back) at Ace Hardware, but did not think it was the right one. I found the Krylon Brilliant Silver no. 51511 at Walmart in my area. There is a Hobby Lobby in Denton, TX somewhat farther away. I have not opened the Krylon Brilliant Silver, so I could return it to Walmart for credit. Ron do you still have the can of Satin Nickel? If so take a look at the back side of the can for the number. That would nail it for sure. In the meantime, I will look on Krylon's website again and see if I can spot it.

Thanks in advance.

Joe

Thanks in advance.

[Joeztech]

OK, I found this information after searching for Satin Nickel:
krylon 69303 Rust Protector Metallic Paint, Satin Nickel
krylon Satin Nickel 51255
Krylon K05125500 Color Master Brushed MetallicAerosol Spray Paint, 11-Ounce, Satin Nickel
So It appears that they offer it in both a rust protecting version no. 69303 or in just the general purpose no. 51255 version. Armed with this information, I think I can find the right paint. Marketing types keep changing the names of products, which leads to confusion for the average person.

Joe

[Ron Ramirez]

Wow, they carry it in a rust protecting version? I would think that would be the way to go. I can't check right now, but I do remember the cans I have previously purchased mentioning "Color Master" on them.

[Joeztech]

Today I fabricated two carrying handles for the chassis made of some electric fence wire. This allows me to move the chassis without touching it after painting.

I masked all the openings with either painter's masking tape or a cotton ball stuffed under the chassis against some trimmer capacitor top surfaces. The space was so tight I could not get tape in the spot without removing rivets and taking the trimmers out. I covered all the tube sockets and trimmed the masking tape with an Xaxto knife. I also covered the brass rivets that hold the tube sockets to the chassis and trimmed the excess masking tape there too.
   
I took the chassis to the barn and shot it with some gray metal primer. The temperature had climbed to a little over 50 degrees F., so it was OK to paint. The humidity is low now as a cold front had passed through. After about 20 minutes I brought the chassis back into the house and took pictures. Tomorrow I plan to look for the satin silver paint at Hobby Lobby or Walmart. I looked yesterday at Ace Hardware, but they did not have the right paint.
   
Joe

[Joeztech]

Today I made a trip back to Walmart and found the exact paint that we have discussed. It only cost $3.67. I bought the can, brought it home and proceeded to paint the chassis. The weather was great today with temperatures in the middle 50s and dry air - lots of sunshine. It did not take long to cure enough to bring it back inside and begin removal of the masking tape and cotton balls. It is not absolutely perfect, but looks far better than it did to begin with.
   
Ron graciously offered me a 36-1565-4 field core speaker which is exactly the 12 inch size and has the mounting holes correctly spaced to fit the baffle board. It arrived today and I promptly mounted it to the baffle board. The baffle board has received a coat of shellac like the rest of the cabinet interior to eliminate mouse odors. The new push-buttons, chassis rubber corner cushions and control panel bushings arrived today also.
   
It is starting to come together.

Joe

[exray]

Looking great, Joe!

[morzh]

I do not know what "absolutely perfect" is when applied to painted chassis, but this is perfect enough.