Welcome Guest! Be sure you know and follow the Phorum Rules before posting. Thank you and Enjoy! (January 12) x

Thread Closed
Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Sears 6050 Re-stuffing Ecap question still need answer
#1

I am re-repairing my 6050 and someone at one time just threw a 50 uf Ecap under the chassis to replace the 40 20 that was there.

I had started by just replacing the 50 with a new 50 but was still getting a loud unchanging buzzing from the speaker so I ditched that idea.

I have removed the Ecap and have put in the new 47 and 22 Ecaps to their marked terminals but want to make sure I am getting the grounding right.

I have both negatives twisted and going to one of the outer twist lock terminals of the can. the can says negative is the can so is this correct?

Lastly, Where they put in the replacement cap is now not needed so I just clip it out and don't need to do anything else right?

Here are some pics:


Attached Files Image(s)
               

Times I have been electrocuted in 2021
As of 1/01/2021
AC: 4 DC: 1
Last year: 6
#2

Looks like that 50uf is in backwards. Make sure you didn't make that same mistake in the restuff.
#3

I thought that too but Thats how the other one was in. I'm guessing thats why it was making all that buzzing but I turned it around and it still has the loud buzzing. Hoping the re-stuff will fix it. All wires and caps were replaced so I don't know what else it could be.
I'm not good with trouble shooting as can be seen...

Times I have been electrocuted in 2021
As of 1/01/2021
AC: 4 DC: 1
Last year: 6
#4

If it is any help, an electolytic stuffed in backwrds is likely to blow open or short depending on the fusisters put in place. Best replace everything in voltage divider network and get a handle on current draw with a good old fashioned DC ammeter to find the gremlin. Work from the output stage "backwards" to the antenna. Best of luck.
#5

Can you look at the chassis and tell us which version you have?

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel...017327.pdf

John KK4ZLF
Lexington, KY
"illegitimis non carborundum"




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
1949 Motorola 5A9M
hello mr Fixr, for sure !! I have some radios that I need to make some batteries for too. Sincerely richardradiorich — 12:33 AM
1949 Motorola 5A9M
Dittos, sweet b on the battery. Love the "9 Lives" logo, remembered from my childhood. Other neat ones are t...MrFixr55 — 11:24 PM
Philco 46-1209 strange behavior
Hi Morzh, Dunno if the AC EMI caps are an issue. I never liked the concept but never had an issue with these causin...MrFixr55 — 11:21 PM
Philco 46-1209 strange behavior
And no hum without the 7AF7? Not common but I am thinking heater - cathode short. This would introduce hum in this sta...MrFixr55 — 11:14 PM
schematics
Those filter caps in the cardboard tube are easy to restuff, especially the kind with the rolled over end. You don't hav...Arran — 09:56 PM
Philco Model 16 wiring question
If you have 5 wires, do this: The wires that go to thick-wire wound winding are the filament. If you do not know wha...morzh — 09:03 PM
Philco Model 16 wiring question
I recently acquired a Philco Model 16 Code 126. I removed the power transformer to place heat shrink on some very bad...bobclausen — 08:23 PM
1949 Motorola 5A9M
Hello Bob, That battery looks great nice job ! Sincerely Richardradiorich — 08:20 PM
1949 Motorola 5A9M
Yes, I plan to put a Velcro closer on the top.klondike98 — 07:28 PM
1949 Motorola 5A9M
Nice job on the battery, Bob. Can the box be opened to replace the 9 volters?RodB — 11:32 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 644 online users. [Complete List]
» 1 Member(s) | 643 Guest(s)
Avatar

>