[morzh]

Ron

Now let's compare that enormous inconvenience with the RF chassis, shall we...

I remember that cap, it connects to the output panel, right?
Wasn't difficult for that reason, but was buried under another cap and some wires so I had to dig through the cobweb....

I will be honest, yes compared to the Philco 20 chassis 9-S-262 might seem more complex, but on abolute scale of diffiulties it is one of the simplest ones I worked on. Despite it having motorised tuning and all. Even 66 gave me more grief due to that daughterboard assembly, and the 20 has the filter can to recon with, otherwise I'd rate it as the easiest one I had to restore.

And after completing an AK808 just recently I can honestly say all of them other sets are a walk in the park.

[Ron Ramirez]

Point taken. I suppose a lot of my problems getting started on this project stemmed from unfamiliarity with Brand Z chassis and practices. Remember, more than 90% of my radio work has been on Philco sets.

[PhilcoMike]

Moving right along...

A warning. Do not purchase the 1/4" aluminum rod from Home Depot. It is ever so slightly larger than 1/4" in diameter...just enough that it will not fit in a 1/4" shaft coupling.

Ron,

Looks like metric bit you.  This is happening more and more as vendors on many products reduce inventory down to one product to cover several SKU's.

Great work!

Mike

[Ron Ramirez]

Hmmm...that had not occurred to me. Good point. Well, I'll be more careful from now on in looking for true 1/4" round metal stock for shaft extensions.

[morzh]

Unless you bought without checking using your eye as the gauge, the store cannot sell metrics labelled as imperials or vice versa. They will label them accordingly.

Of course there are alway mixups.

Just today Dell sent me Win 8 disk after us talking for a good hour about me requesting for Win 7 and them agreeing to send me one. (good news they are benevolent people and their denseness ... density...being dense is compensated with their trying to help).

[Arran]

 I think it's a case of poor quality control with whomever is supplying the aluminium rod to Home Depot, the metric equivalent of 1/4'' is 6.35 mm, so if they made it 7 mm you would notice. Do they have 1/4'' brass rod too?
Regards
Arran

[Geoff]

How are things progressing Ron? Haven't seen an update in a few days.

- Geoff

[thirtiesradio]

Hmmm...that had not occurred to me. Good point. Well, I'll be more careful from now on in looking for true 1/4" round metal stock for shaft extensions.

You almost have to take one of those 1/4" shaft couplings along to make sure the size is correct. You just can't trust sizes anymore with almost everything being imported. The other day I went to buy some 1/2" plywood at Lowe's. They only sell 15/32" so I had to change many of the finished sizes in my plans

[Ron Ramirez]

How are things progressing Ron?  Haven't seen an update in a few days.

That's because I'm still waiting for the new resistors to replace the Candohm sections.

You almost have to take one of those 1/4" shaft couplings along to make sure the size is correct.

Right you are...lesson learned...and I cut the rod before I realized its diameter is larger than 1/4" so I can't take it back. At least it only cost $4 and change, so no great loss.

[murf]

I can always supply 1/4 inch dia. (.250) if someone needs a short length.
You would have to pay shipping.
Let me know. Always eager to help fellow enthusiasts.
murf

[Arran]

Hmmm...that had not occurred to me. Good point. Well, I'll be more careful from now on in looking for true 1/4" round metal stock for shaft extensions.

You almost have to take one of those 1/4" shaft couplings along to make sure the size is correct. You just can't trust sizes anymore with almost everything being imported. The other day I went to buy some 1/2" plywood at Lowe's. They only sell 15/32" so I had to change many of the finished sizes in my plans

If that was cabinet plywood the convention in N.A is to quote the nominal dimension not the actual, so it was 1/2'' before being sanded down to 15/32''. If you want full dimensional plywood you need to either use construction grade or Baltic Birch, not sure about that pine ply imported from Chile though. Most radio cabinets used a full 1/4'' to 3/8'', hardwood plywood, often poplar core by sometimes maple or ash.
With regards to rod for control shafts I picked up some fiberglass rod at the dollar store, they are sold as driveway markers so they are bright orange with reflective stickers wrapped around them. The reason I needed them is I have a pair of Hallicrafters S-38s with broken tuning control shafts, the original shafts were made out of a grey fiber substance since the S-38 is an AC/DC set with a steel cabinet. I have to see if they are the proper diameter, but even if they are not they only cost $1 each.
Regards
Arran

[Ron Ramirez]

Finally...nine days later...

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...62_018.jpg]

A CARE package from Mansfield, Texas with goodies inside.

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...62_019.jpg]

I promptly installed the necessary resistors on the terminal strips:

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...62_020.jpg]

Now it's on to rebuilding the electrolytic cans and moving on from there.

[Ron Ramirez]

And It's Alive...

[Image: http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum...62_021.jpg]

I restuffed the electrolytic cap cans. I should mention that I did not have the original Brand Z three-section electrolytic can, so I added a clamp and an old Philco aluminum can capacitor to hold the three new electrolytics. Little Joe's parents are not collectors and they won't mind that this set has some Philco parts.

Once the electrolytics were restuffed, reinstalled and wired into the circuit, I checked my wiring and then attached an AC cord temporarily. It's green, so it will not be left on permanently.

All of the necessary wiring was soldered onto the new power-sensitivity switch.

I then tested all of the tubes. You may recall that the 6T5 in this set was dead (open filament). With many thanks to Sam, it now has a good 6E5.

It's funny...the 6T5 was the only bad tube. The rest are all good. Yes, most are metal; pardon me. I do not have a lot of ST style octal tubes and of the ones I do have, I'm saving them for use in my 1937-38 Philcos. Pin 1 of each socket is connected to chassis ground (I checked). So even though it doesn't look pretty by Brand Z standards, it is functional.

Next, I pulled the speaker from the cabinet. A previous owner decided to use Magic Transparent tape on the speaker cone over numerous tears. The tape was not holding (which, really, was a good thing). I removed the tape.

I connected the speaker to the chassis, connected my temporary antenna to the A terminal, with a jumper between the Z and G terminals.

I plugged it in, turned it on, and held my breath...

Soon, I could hear AM static through the speaker. I then tuned it to my home SSTRAN transmitter at 660 kc.

The music came through loud and clear.

After letting it play for a few minutes, I turned it off and unplugged it. I then went over the tears in the speaker cone with fabric glue. The cone should be OK once the glue dries.

The radio needs new dial belts. These are already on order from Adams Radio; I'm just waiting for them to arrive.

Once the dial belts are in place and after I replace the AM band leaves of the shutter dial (a job I am not looking forward to), I can align the set and it will be ready to go.

[Geoff]

Don't let those AM band leaves intimidate you. It's like anything else with radios you have never worked on before. Once you do it once you realize how easy it is. Great job Ron!

[morzh]

Ron

I do not know if you checked all coils for continuity but do check the very first one as even if it is open the radio will receive on all bands but will be less sensitive. Good test is if the dstance switch works - without this coil it will have no effect. Took me a bit to figure it out.