How to match the original finish?
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I bought a beautiful Philco 48-1263 last night. The finish is gorgeous except for the top, where of course someone placed a flower pot at some time in the past. The veneer is broken and strips are missing- no big deal, but how do I EXACTLY match the rest of the finish? What color?
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I take it you have little experience with vintage furnisher or radios?
In short, you should take it to a professional - or two, that do.
"I just might turn into smoke, but I feel fine"
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Yep, good advice.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
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Not nice or helpful guys
We all have to learn some how
If I asked same question would you say same thing
Ps I may ask too as I don't know how to do cabinets
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mafiamen2
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Depends......I go to a pro myself (or at least I think he is).
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
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We'll I'm at the end of his line
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mafiamen2
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Me too! I am sure he has not even started on my stuff. He is all about Halsons now. And hotel radios.
People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
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Actually, there are only two things I ever tried to do that I didn't become very good at- sex and golf. Turns out, though, you don't have to be very good at either to have an immense amount of fun. I do have some experience in furniture refinishing, but I guess I should have asked "what is the specific color I should be trying to find?" There are two small photofinish strips on the top which I can duplicate rather easily, but I'd rather not have to strip the entire cabinet. It only needs the top done. And don't worry, I check my feelings at the door. If I hadn't wanted your honest opinion I wouldn't have asked.
Quote:"If you take in a starving dog and feed him and make him prosperous he will never bite you- this is the principle difference between dogs and men." Mark Twain
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Quote:how do I EXACTLY match the rest of the finish?
You use sealer/filler and then spray toner and lacquer, the same as at the factory. The precise color of the toner, and whether translucent or opaque, "depends" (on a lot of things). Rattle cans of lacquer work fine.
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OK. You go out and buy a compressor, painting equipment, materials, if you can find somebody that will still sell you gallons of lacquer, dye, and so on. Then learn how to match or replace veneer after acquiring said veneer. Then you practice for about 2 years. And still you will probably not get it "Exactly" right.
You want to save some money? Do what I said.
And we have not even started on whether or not the radio is to work or remain working, but, I would say this part is slightly easier. Might not take two years, but for some it takes longer.
If you are asking about making a hobby out of it, never mind.
"I just might turn into smoke, but I feel fine"
http://www.russoldradios.com/
(This post was last modified: 05-15-2015, 11:52 PM by Phlogiston.)
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SOME TIMES SAYING NOTHING IS BETTER
sam
Some day, and that day may never come, I will call upon you to do a service for me. But until that day, accept this justice as a gift
mafiamen2
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(05-16-2015, 12:36 AM)sam Wrote: SOME TIMES SAYING NOTHING IS BETTER
sam
SONETIMES the truth hurts.
Russ
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1. The top sounds roached but a photos would be great.
2. If it is that bad I would either remove the top veneer or patch the existing veneer.
3. If this is not something you feel comfortable doing then let us help you as you post each step.
4 As for the plant stain, that may kill the repair idea. You would have to strip it with all good areas taped and papered off.
Then use a bix stripper of the like to softed the finish and scrape off with a plastic scraper being careful not to over apply so it seeps onto the new finish.
4. If the stain is white you can try stain to batch it. If it is black you can use wood bleach.
5. If the damage is on the curve which I suspect it is not you will still have to strip the whole area in the center.
6. Whe you are happy with the results then you can apply a sanding sealer and tone.
7. The toner is fairly easy to use in rattle cans. Just apply thin coats a few minutes apart until it is the desired color.
8. I would use medium walnut as it has that reddish hue to it.
9. Sand lightly using 200 sandpaper and go to 400.
10. Then you can clear the area with spray lacquer (clear) apply light at first them wet coats.
11. Sand between coats and when you are happy with the coverage, sand from 400 to 2000 Grit.
12. Let it cure for at least a month before finishing with pumice if desired and then use plain old jonsons butchers wax to shine that baby!
Post every question before you move on to each step.
If you need to Re-veneer you can use paper backed and titebond 2 glue. Apply to both the cabinet and the veneer, let dry and then Iron on the veneer. The stripes may cause you some grief but I have actually just toned the stripes on in some cases. Looks great and very hard to tell it is not inlaid.
Kirk
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kirk
thanks for info
a little help always go a long way
sam
Some day, and that day may never come, I will call upon you to do a service for me. But until that day, accept this justice as a gift
mafiamen2
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