Some of you know that I also collect the Silvertone "green dial" sets. Got a good one today, a model 1968 console. It is a 12 tube, four band set with variable IF like the 1905/55/65 sets and has four 45 tubes for the output.
I already have it apart and must obtain a schematic for it before I begin it's renovation.
Had one globe 45, which was the only bad 45. Figures.
Also at some time in the past it had been converted from a 5Z3 to a 5U4 rectifier, which is fine. Oh yes, the 5U4 was dead too, probably because I dropped the _____ (bad word) thing and it broke.
I've had my 47-1230 out for repair for months... The company is an authorized Philco dealer, and have replaced a few parts, but when they replace one, they find another that is bad. But, I'm fine with that, as long as they are getting somewhere.
Unfortunately, the company working on it is going out of business. Does anyone here know of anyone in Eastern PA that may be able to finish up the chassis for me? I've got the schematics, and can/will acquire required parts, but I need help getting it all together.
Thanks.
Hello,
I've been working on a Philco 46-131. All the caps (except mica) have been replaced as was a bad resistor. The tubes were checked and replaced as necessary. Radio plays and receives stations without problem. The trouble is garbled audio. I can't get it to clear up even after alignment.
The one thing I did notice was 90 volts where I'm supposed to have 79. Could that be my problem? I am using my Silvertone Powr Shftr. My Silvertone battery radio works well on this. Now that I think about it I have another Philco battery radio that also has the same audio issue I never resolved. Perhaps this is the problem?
Thank you for any comments/suggestions.
Mark
Hi All,
I would like to recap my Model 87 soon. I have a small stockpile of high quality German MKP Audiophiler 400WVDC film capacitors in the higher values that might be usable for the larger filter caps (the 1, 2, and .5uF ones), but also a good supply of the usual 630V yellow caps of indeterminate origin from "Just Radios".
None of the schematics I have seen give voltage ratings for the filter caps. This radio is extremely special to me, so I would prefer to go with quality if possible. This is not to say that the typical yellow ones are bad, but the German caps seem to be manufactured to a much higher standard, and always measure spot-on for capacitance (the larger-value yellow ones all measure a trifle low). Based on the Rider's schematic I've seen with voltage readings, 400V caps won't provide all that much overhead...
Would the 400V caps be suitable for the application? Would it be better to go with the yellow 630s for the sake of higher overhead/increased reliability? Am I just being really picky? Thanks in advance!
I have been working on the 37-660 I picked up recently and have a couple of questions. I have capped it and replaced resistors where necessary. I fired it up and measured volages and all seem to be reasonable except I measure 256V on the plate of the 6K5 where it is supposed to be 150. Also I checked the resistance of the OT and am getting some real high readings. The schematic says on the primary CT to either end should be 330 ohms and 370. I am getting 1540 and 1980. I suspect that there may be those "green spots of corrosion" creating the high readings. I had this happen last year in a 41-629. Can anmyone confirm the approximate resistance readings of the primary should be?
Any clue as to why I would have such a high plate voltage on the 6K5? Thanks.
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel...013220.pdf
Well,
I am old enough to recognize my shortcomings.
I was never good with woodworking.
And (maybe because I had not tried that, due to whatever...lack of proper space is one of the lame excuses I could think of) I never got myself to derive any excitement from the cabinet restoration.
However I have three radios (two of which, both Philcos, I restored electrically, so they work) that will need some cabinet work done on them.
I am in Jackson NJ, so it is somewhat middle Jersey, slightly favoring South.
Does anyone know any good reputable business that is capable of radio cabinetry work (considering veneers matching, etc) around here?
I tried calling few businesses, but the mostly strip the whole thing and fully re-finish, and I have decent original finish on mine, and I'd like to keep it.
Mike.
I finally pulled the chassis from my 116X yesterday but first, I brought it up slowly on the variac. At 95 volts she came alive with a loud hum. But, she also was faintly pulling in a couple of stations. Wonderful! I shut it down, yanked the chassis, and started to replace the power filters. Surprise, surprise, someone was in there ahead of me, a very long time ago (Repair is dated 7-15-1940). Unfortunately they didn't do a very good job. The double lytic (8Mfd-500V, 100Mfd-100V) had been replaced with (8Mfd-475V, 8Mfd-475V). The real problem was they had pulled the grounding lug off of the old can and just slipped it up between the new can and the clamp. However, the new can was actually a cardboard replacement, not metal, and it shrank over time allowing the lug to slip out as soon as the wire was touched. Not sure what, if any, contact the lug had with metal.
I replaced all three power filters, reconnected the chassis, and brought it back up on the variac. Good news is she plays; bad news is the speaker's bad. At minimum/low volume it's fine but as soon as you start to bring the volume up it starts to seriously buzz and rattle. Since the horsehair around the top and bottom of the speaker has been eaten away (I guess the little devils couldn't reach the horsehair on the sides) I suspect the cone is damaged by the mice who lived in there for a long time. Hopefully the speaker in my parts radio is good.
The amazing thing is it has all Philco tubes in it and I think they're all original. That was a nice surprise. Also, the shadow meter appears to be in working order.
[Image: http://i863.photobucket.com/albums/ab191...16x-1s.jpg]
[Image: http://i863.photobucket.com/albums/ab191...16x-2s.jpg]
Larry
I looked through the Philco Radio site and I couldn't find the procedure for re-stuffing the cap block attached to the tone control on my model 90. It's gotta be there somewhere. Does this procedure exist and does anyone know where to find it? I found lots of topics on the 90 tone control but nothing specific to what I need to do.
Thanks,
Pepper
Anyone have the schematics for a Philco 38-60? All I could find was a pdf with a parts list and nothing more ...Thanks Doug
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