Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Re-stuffing metal bodied capacitors.
#31

I don't use a dremel. I use a coping saw with the finest blade available.
#32

(04-20-2019, 07:51 PM)Kestas Wrote:  I don't use a dremel.  I use a coping saw with the finest blade available.

We use what we have.  I had a hack saw.  Maybe I could have done what you suggest ( nibble) with it also, but again, hind-sight
Do you have any pics of your work? How did you disguise the cut there?
#33

What I used can be considered a small hack saw. After cutting I dress the cut on each side by sanding (or filing) down each side, then rejoining with JB Weld. The cut is disguised by the structure under the cap.

I also prefer this over cutting at the bottom because it makes the can stronger, in case the chassis is handled by the can or if the can is bumped.
#34

(04-20-2019, 08:49 PM)Kestas Wrote:  What I used can be considered a small hack saw.  After cutting I dress the cut on each side by sanding (or filing) down each side, then rejoining with JB Weld.  The cut is disguised by the structure under the cap.

I also prefer this over cutting at the bottom because it makes the can stronger, in case the chassis is handled by the can or if the can is bumped.

I see.    Ok.  Thanks.

Jake
#35

[attachment=19024 Wrote:Jake Blake pid='154526' dateline='1555805590']
(04-20-2019, 05:20 PM)Phlogiston Wrote:  If you will cut that cap at the factory crease, just above the base, smooth the cut a little with a grinder (very little) then glue it back together with silver silicon, no one will ever know it was taken apart.

I am doing one right now - usually this style of cap is newer than the radios I prefer to work on - anyway if you would like to see pictures - - -

Yes bud, one pic,... a 1000 words.  I would appreciate it.
...I'm a little confused at what you just said. The crease is at the TOP of these caps, not the bottom. . .  .but I thought you indicated cutting at the base. If I attempt this again, I'm leaning toward favoring cutting at the bottom, which looks like it would facilitate the working of the new caps, as well as enabling a crimping of the base , then fitting the top over the base, covering a lot of sins.    It's clear my drawback was not having a Dremmel-type tool.

That depends on the style of the can. The older ones have the seal/fold/seam at the top, though the oldest ones (Mershon) have the fold at the bottom AND a seal at the top. You must deal with each style in a different way.

These newer style cans are my least favorite to deal with. I just realized that my silver silicone sealer has gone bad. It does not last a year. So I'll seal it up after a trip to the store.

   


   


   


   


   

"I just might turn into smoke, but I feel fine"
http://www.russoldradios.com/
#36

(04-20-2019, 08:49 PM)Kestas Wrote:  I also prefer this over cutting at the bottom because it makes the can stronger, in case the chassis is handled by the can or if the can is bumped.

that's a very note worthy point,, i will change the way i do things not on these caps considering what your saying.


for the record,, i use aluminum exhaust pipe tape for cars to seal up the cut area, just a tiny skinny band.

the reason i cut low was for future access and repairs though, this way i remove the tape and lift off the can.
#37

Phlogiston

i really like your style using the return bar as a support structure for the caps as well.
#38

Oh, and P.S. - -I have also ground down the lip that secures the base then pulling the innards and base out in one piece with some heat. This is not really hard and the base is reinserted with some glue. I did not do this one that way since it would have required the removal of those resistors which were good - AND - this project really is a  resto-mod for my own use rather than a real restoration.

"I just might turn into smoke, but I feel fine"
http://www.russoldradios.com/




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)
[-]
Recent Posts
Jackson 715 not working
Mrfixr55, its working now. I cleaned the switches and sockets with spray cleaner. Thanks for helping on this one.daveone23 — 06:26 PM
Jackson 715 not working
Now that you posted the schematic, I don't know why that Sprague electrolytic cap is across the meter, as it is not indi...MrFixr55 — 05:51 PM
HiFi (Chifi) tube amp build - but my own design.
What may be lacking in the PP Tube amps may be the 2nd harmonics, which some, especially RCA back in the day called &quo...MrFixr55 — 05:32 PM
Jackson 715 not working
Usually in an emission tester, the tube under test is measured as if it were a diode. So, some testers connect all the g...RodB — 04:17 PM
Restoring Philco 37-604C
Yep. F5 is green, D5 is Red. Red is Bad. Green is Clean.morzh — 01:30 PM
Jackson 715 not working
I did start to do that but I stalled out because I could not figure out how the grid and plate get voltage. In this diag...daveone23 — 11:52 AM
Restoring Philco 37-604C
(Insert Homer Simpson "DOPF" Here.) When all fails, look at the can. Took the Ron Ramirez advice, red Caig D...MrFixr55 — 09:23 AM
Philco 91 Speaker Replacement
From your text I am not sure if you intend to use the existing speaker with a resistor instead of the field coil. It wo...morzh — 08:44 AM
Philco 91 Speaker Replacement
My field coil is bad. I am still hoping to find an original, but if I can't I will go with a fitting Philco speaker, 125...dconant — 08:34 AM
Philco 91 Speaker Replacement
As Rod said, it is OK to use a fitting speaker, and then look for an original one. If you buy a Hammond 125 output tr...morzh — 08:15 AM

[-]
Who's Online
There are currently 3874 online users. [Complete List]
» 1 Member(s) | 3873 Guest(s)
Avatar

>