05-19-2008, 10:24 PM
Hello,
Great site, already learned a bunch. I've recently come into 3 Philcos; 2 bakelites and a console.
I've got schematics for all three thank goodness, but I have a few other questions.
All of these radios are complete (case and chassis) with only some tubes missing. I intend to put them all back into service. Can I/should I dare try to power them back up without recapping them?
Anyone else have a 38-5x console? I get to pick mine up in a few weeks. I managed to get one complete with chassis and tubes. Looks so far like the veneer is in pretty good shape with only some slight delam near the back edge on one side. The finish is warn on top and parts of the front. I'll be looking for advice there later.
What's the best way to clean up the bakelite cases? I've heard soap and water, and brasso/metal polishes?
My 46-131 has a large crack and loose piece. Fortunately I have the piece and it even fits tightly into the crack without anything more than just a few small chips missing. What's the best way to repair/glue the bakelite? I was planning on using some cyanoacrylate "instant" glue. Whenever I have used this in the past I always get a little of 'squeezeout'. Normally this wouldn't be a problem as I would just sand it down to blend it in to the surrounding surface. I hear that bakelite doesn't take to sanding well, what's the best way to handle this as well as removing small scratches/crud from the rest of the cabinet?
My 48-460 is one of the white "hippo" versions. The white/ivory paint is very warn and dirty with many, many chips missing from it along with several areas where it is simply flaking off. My first inclination is to strip off all the white paint and just go with the dark (brown or black, haven't noticed) bakelite underneath. Am I crazy for doing this? What would you use to remove the old paint? The other option is i could 'feather' the old paint and repaint it white/ivory. It is by no means a museum piece as there are a few smallish chips missing from the case around the rear opening but no other major cracks/blemishes.
Thanks for your help,
John
Great site, already learned a bunch. I've recently come into 3 Philcos; 2 bakelites and a console.
I've got schematics for all three thank goodness, but I have a few other questions.
All of these radios are complete (case and chassis) with only some tubes missing. I intend to put them all back into service. Can I/should I dare try to power them back up without recapping them?
Anyone else have a 38-5x console? I get to pick mine up in a few weeks. I managed to get one complete with chassis and tubes. Looks so far like the veneer is in pretty good shape with only some slight delam near the back edge on one side. The finish is warn on top and parts of the front. I'll be looking for advice there later.
What's the best way to clean up the bakelite cases? I've heard soap and water, and brasso/metal polishes?
My 46-131 has a large crack and loose piece. Fortunately I have the piece and it even fits tightly into the crack without anything more than just a few small chips missing. What's the best way to repair/glue the bakelite? I was planning on using some cyanoacrylate "instant" glue. Whenever I have used this in the past I always get a little of 'squeezeout'. Normally this wouldn't be a problem as I would just sand it down to blend it in to the surrounding surface. I hear that bakelite doesn't take to sanding well, what's the best way to handle this as well as removing small scratches/crud from the rest of the cabinet?
My 48-460 is one of the white "hippo" versions. The white/ivory paint is very warn and dirty with many, many chips missing from it along with several areas where it is simply flaking off. My first inclination is to strip off all the white paint and just go with the dark (brown or black, haven't noticed) bakelite underneath. Am I crazy for doing this? What would you use to remove the old paint? The other option is i could 'feather' the old paint and repaint it white/ivory. It is by no means a museum piece as there are a few smallish chips missing from the case around the rear opening but no other major cracks/blemishes.
Thanks for your help,
John
