07-26-2023, 07:04 PM
https://philcoradio.com/library/download...l.%201.pdf
I recently had an opportunity to pick up a Canadian Philco 3116. It doesn’t show an X on the chassis label but it has the two 6A3 tubes so it must be a X model. I don’t know if there is a different schematic for Canadian sets and if there is, where can I obtain one?
It will be a challenge for me to say the least but I will take my time and with help from the more experienced members, hopefully it will work out.
I’m starting with the two electrolytics, Parts #103 and #104. These two caps have been replaced before and I don’t want to make a mistake when I put in my replacement caps.
In the first photo, electrolyic #104, on the left, is totally disconnected and electrolytic #103, to the right, only the blue dot portion of the cap where the blue circle is, of #103 is still connected. The red circle lug of #103 is disconnected.
I’m assuming the blue circle connection is the 10 mfd portion of #103. The - of this cap is connected to the center tap, #3 in the photo, and the + is connected to chassis ground. The #4 wire, cream colored, in the photo is also connected to the center tap and goes to the #92, the audio transformer.
#1 and #2 on his replacement cap are both 24 mfd’s with both - connections going to #3 center tap. The + wire from #1 goes to the left hand lug of the filter choke, and then to Pin #1 of the 5Z3. The + connection from #2 goes to the speaker socket first, then on to right hand side of the filter choke. Are all these connections correct?
I wanted ask what size my replacement caps should be. Can I use 10 mfd for all three or go higher? Also, why would the person who did the previous repair use only one side of an existing dual cap, #103, and disconnect the other side. I’m still learning so I don’t understand why it was done in this manner.
In the second photo I wanted to confirm if the yellow box contains Part #102. The parts list shows #102 as a bakelite box. If it isn’t Part #102…what is it? The red box in the same photo shows the filter choke.
I hope I didn’t confuse everybody with all my arrows and numbers. It took me longer to write this post then it would take most of you to repair the radio! If I didn’t explain my issues clearly, please ask for further information.
I realize that this post is basic stuff for most members but if there’s anything I don’t want to mess up, it’s the electrolytics. My schematic reading is improving but I have a lot to learn and I have no problem with asking for assistance.
I recently had an opportunity to pick up a Canadian Philco 3116. It doesn’t show an X on the chassis label but it has the two 6A3 tubes so it must be a X model. I don’t know if there is a different schematic for Canadian sets and if there is, where can I obtain one?
It will be a challenge for me to say the least but I will take my time and with help from the more experienced members, hopefully it will work out.
I’m starting with the two electrolytics, Parts #103 and #104. These two caps have been replaced before and I don’t want to make a mistake when I put in my replacement caps.
In the first photo, electrolyic #104, on the left, is totally disconnected and electrolytic #103, to the right, only the blue dot portion of the cap where the blue circle is, of #103 is still connected. The red circle lug of #103 is disconnected.
I’m assuming the blue circle connection is the 10 mfd portion of #103. The - of this cap is connected to the center tap, #3 in the photo, and the + is connected to chassis ground. The #4 wire, cream colored, in the photo is also connected to the center tap and goes to the #92, the audio transformer.
#1 and #2 on his replacement cap are both 24 mfd’s with both - connections going to #3 center tap. The + wire from #1 goes to the left hand lug of the filter choke, and then to Pin #1 of the 5Z3. The + connection from #2 goes to the speaker socket first, then on to right hand side of the filter choke. Are all these connections correct?
I wanted ask what size my replacement caps should be. Can I use 10 mfd for all three or go higher? Also, why would the person who did the previous repair use only one side of an existing dual cap, #103, and disconnect the other side. I’m still learning so I don’t understand why it was done in this manner.
In the second photo I wanted to confirm if the yellow box contains Part #102. The parts list shows #102 as a bakelite box. If it isn’t Part #102…what is it? The red box in the same photo shows the filter choke.
I hope I didn’t confuse everybody with all my arrows and numbers. It took me longer to write this post then it would take most of you to repair the radio! If I didn’t explain my issues clearly, please ask for further information.
I realize that this post is basic stuff for most members but if there’s anything I don’t want to mess up, it’s the electrolytics. My schematic reading is improving but I have a lot to learn and I have no problem with asking for assistance.
