[Paul Philco322]

For reconing I have used Rich Stamer in NJ. Sound Remedy is his business. Reasonable, nice work. I am sure he cam be googled up easy.
If you do not do yourself.

Paul

[morzh]

Ccomer

Transformer being a power transfer device, the radio likely used the same power with two transformers as it would with one. Corrected for core losses. In short, it is not twice. Maybe 10% or so more.

[ccomer1955]

Thanks, Paul. He gave me a much better price. Now, decisions...

[ccomer1955]

I took the Model H speaker apart today, and remeasured everything. One of the wires going to the voice coil had badly broken insulation in several places, so I heated it a bit to straighten it out, then put some shrink wrap on and pushed the shrink wrap as close to the windings as I could get it. Seems to be OK, now. It measures right at 3.3K.
The output transformer is open on one side, so that's more bad news for this badly used set. I'm guessing the primary because the side with resistance measures under 200 ohms. I wonder if I might be able to open the bell housing and repair the break? I've never done it before, but have little to lose there. Any advice before I try it?

[morzh]

The voice coil is 1 Ohm or o.

Did you mean Field coil?


Now, the transformer's output should be in units of Ohms, 200 ohms looks more like the pimary. Which could be good as the secondary is on top and is relatively easily rewound, unlike the primary.
But also strange, to open the secondary is next to impossible.

Hint: secondary is done with thick wire and primary is thin wire.

[ccomer1955]

Yes, field coil, I mean, sorry. I'm getting 3.4K on the Field coil connected to the output transformer and disconnected from it. The output transformer has four lugs on its bottom that connect to wires going to the speaker plug and two wires that go to a terminal strip on the frame for the cone. When I take the OT off of the pot metal housing behind the speaker cone and disconnected the wires from all points, I get about 175 ohms from two of the lugs on the output transformer and nothing on the other two, 3.4K on the wires that go to the field coil, and 0 ohms to .8 ohms on the wires that connect to the terminal strip.
From what you say, it sounds like I'm OK, then. After I read your post, I did some experimenting. I have a 1.01K FC Magnavox speaker and a Philco OT (part 32-7019) that I took off of my Philco 66 because I found the correct Philco speaker for the 66 on Ebay, and when I measured the FC and OT, I got similar measurements (not the same numbers, just similar results).

[ccomer1955]

The wire sleeving on the speaker bundle is pretty torn up, but the individual wires seem to be in good shape. Has anyone ever used this product to replace the wire loom/sleeving?

http://www.partsconnexion.com/product1175.html

I was thinking I could dye it green since its cotton. It won't have the piping, but it will hold the four wires a bit better assuming 11mm is big enough.

[Ron Ramirez]

Neat! I have never used it, nor have I ever seen one of those available. I wonder if I could get one large enough to fit 5-6 wires and a shielded cable into, for my McMurdo Silver MP VI? Thanks for the link!

FWIW, Charlie, after 1930 Philco stopped using the cloth sleeve on the speaker cable and just twisted the wires together with no sleeve.

[ccomer1955]

I saw these, too, but they were in the Netherlands. This company has more sizes to offer. The USA one has a handful, but 11mm is the biggest. The company in Holland goes up to 1".

http://www.techflex.nl/speciaal-cotton-s...anguage=EN

The Rit Dye web page shows how to mix colors to get other colors, like Khaki Green. A guy on ARF uses his Boy Scout skills to tie whip knots at the ends of the tubing to prevent fraying.

[ccomer1955]

I'm getting ready to start mapping out the connections for the power supply on this 77 in anticipation of a new transformer from a 76 model, and I'm looking at the schematics for both sets. Can anyone confirm that the 76 model schematic simply doesn't label lugs 1 & 2 on the transformer and begins labeling lugs at what would be lug 3 on the 77? If that makes sense, that is. The 76 schematic gives no label to the 117v line, but shows it with the switch as the primary, and the 77 schematic labels the primary lines as 1 & 2. The hookup looks identical for the part of the circuit hookup for the rectifier, choke, capacitor block, and wire-wound resistors. Am I seeing that correctly?

[ccomer1955]

I located a transformer and have started to unravel the unruly ball of wire left behind by the previous repairs. I am greatly aided in this by Chuck's copies of the service literature which include huge copies of the schematic and the parts map, but I am a bit lost at the capacitor block (part 28 ). I have three questions at this point if anybody can help:
1) The line labeled "D" connects to one of the field coil prongs on the speaker socket and goes from there to the choke (27), but also to lugs 4 and 6 of the capacitor block. Does that mean lugs 4 & 6 of 28 have a jumper across them because they have no connection inside the capacitor block?
2) Line "J" goes from the other field coil prong of the speaker socket to many places. I can trace it to the primary of the input transformer with my DMM through C14, but I have three candidates for this connection at the capacitor block all of which show continuity with the "J" prong of the speaker socket. Answering my own question, I suppose I will need to lift the two capacitor boxes (C7 & C14) slice open the wire wrap, and physically follow the wire. One of the problems here is that the wires come out from the wire wrap a different color than they go in because of previous repairs, so I think taking the wrap off might be the answer here.
3) Once I trace to lug 1 of C28, R18 clearly connects to lugs 1 & 3 in the parts map, but I can't figure out what lug 3 connects to at all. So since "J" goes to lug 1 of C28, the other side of the path from the line coming from "J" must be lug 3. I should be looking for a direct connection between R18, R17 and C14 at lug 3 of C28?

I thought I was doing better at reading schematics, but this one and the ground-up rebuild have me scratching my head.

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel...013838.pdf

[Ron Ramirez]

Easier to read:
http://www.philcoradio.com/tech/images/77.jpg

1. Yes.
2. Follow the schematic, the only terminal lug on capacitor can (28 ) that "J" connects to is terminal 1.
3. Terminal 3 on (28 ) is just a tie point, no capacitor inside the can connects to it.

I should be looking for a direct connection between R18, R17 and C14 at lug 3 of C28?

I don't think so, but I don't own a 77 so can't confirm.

[ccomer1955]

Thanks, Ron. That only leaves the mystery of what ties to lug 3, then. I have much to do on this set, so I have plenty of other work to start in on while I ponder why R18 is across C28 lugs 1 & 3 with 3 seeming to go no where. UPDATE: I found it when I pulled C14. It goes from one of the lugs on C11 directly to lug 3 of C28.
I'm kind of loving this set so far. I think I must be a TRF guy at heart. Oh, a quick Philco question: The large dog-bone resistors (100K, 500K, etc.) are all 1 watt, correct? If Philco need a higher watt rating, they used wire-wound as I understand? Using Chuck's resistor pictures as a guide, they all seem to be in the inch and a half range, so that would be 1 watt, I think?

[Ron Ramirez]

You didn't look here, did you?

http://www.philcoradio.com/tech/images/77.jpg

It says "All resistors [are] 1 watt except (26) [and] (30)."

[ccomer1955]

No. But I will in the future. You've really built quite the resource here. Makes me want to stay in the Philco world all the time, now.