The mounting threading is integral with the body of the can, ( and there IS NO mounting bracket to hide a cut down low), so the logical choice left was cut at the top of the can. Someone else suggested cutting right inside that groove at the top, . . . and I agreed. But when I did, I ended up slicing into the concave top, . . . and ruining it.
I've decided I agree with Chas now, and am going to forget stuffing cans. It was a learning experience, . . . I didn't dream of what I found in that can! But now, I have to find an old replacement to occupy the hole left by the missing destroyed 4mfd cap.
Any one out there have any extra old cans of this type that they would part with?
Chas,
I checked out that Hammerfest website. That's a new one on me. Very interesting. I'll have to remember that one, should I ever need to recap any high-end audio equipment.
I checked that webspage out, and I do think some of the copper stuff is attractive, . . . but my initial intention was to preserve the interior of the radio as mush as possible. I was wanting the capacitors to look like they'd never been changed. But, alas, with my cutting into the top, that premise goes out the window.
But thanks for the suggestion.
I was not suggesting that you change the type of cap for the copper type. I just wanted to show you the disassembly and pictures of the copper ones was what I found.
The odd time that I restuff those wet electrolytics I cut them off about 1/4" above the bottom and as Arran said ... remove the wiring stud. Then I restuff, passing the wires down thru' the old wiring hole. I crimp the sides of the bottom part in slightly, clean all well and then glue it back together with by sliding the top over the crimped bottom with a coat of JB Weld between them to hold it together. Ya' cain't see it.
Thank you John, for the insight. I do like that J B Weld!...had great luck with it on plumbing issues. If I ever attempt to do this again, I'll try to bear it in mind.
I'm a little surprised you removed the wiring stud. I was planning to solder the positive lead of the new caps to it, retaining the original look as as much possible.
The stud is often made of AL. I replace the stud with a steel 1/4 X 20 and then solder to the top. This make for a more original look and the original connector/connection at the base can be reused.
(04-18-2019, 08:30 PM)Phlogiston Wrote: Sorry to be late - -
The stud is often made of AL. I replace the stud with a steel 1/4 X 20 and then solder to the top. This make for a more original look and the original connector/connection at the base can be reused.
That's ok bud...I don't seem to see notice of replies either until late, or I'm not checking the right email or something.
Hindsight shows I should have cut at the bottom, maybe a 1/2" up, as you and John Bartley suggested. Someone else suggested cutting along the groove at the top.
If I can find a suitable replacement for the one I butchered , I may try this. But I'm not too hopeful. I will probably just put them underneath. Thanks.
(This post was last modified: 04-18-2019, 09:46 PM by Jake Blake.)
a couple shots of my most recent filter cap reworking..
I made myself up a common return for all the cap Neg leads to bond to using solid #10awg copper.
that common sicks out the bottom of the set and is soldered to the radios original common chassis bond.
(This post was last modified: 04-20-2019, 09:47 AM by jcassity.)
If you will cut that cap at the factory crease, just above the base, smooth the cut a little with a grinder (very little) then glue it back together with silver silicon, no one will ever know it was taken apart.
I am doing one right now - usually this style of cap is newer than the radios I prefer to work on - anyway if you would like to see pictures - - -
(04-20-2019, 05:20 PM)Phlogiston Wrote: If you will cut that cap at the factory crease, just above the base, smooth the cut a little with a grinder (very little) then glue it back together with silver silicon, no one will ever know it was taken apart.
I am doing one right now - usually this style of cap is newer than the radios I prefer to work on - anyway if you would like to see pictures - - -
Yes bud, one pic,... a 1000 words. I would appreciate it.
...I'm a little confused at what you just said. The crease is at the TOP of these caps, not the bottom. . . .but I thought you indicated cutting at the base. If I attempt this again, I'm leaning toward favoring cutting at the bottom, which looks like it would facilitate the working of the new caps, as well as enabling a crimping of the base , then fitting the top over the base, covering a lot of sins. It's clear my drawback was not having a Dremmel-type tool.
(04-20-2019, 09:44 AM)jcassity Wrote: a couple shots of my most recent filter cap reworking..
I made myself up a common return for all the cap Neg leads to bond to using solid #10awg copper.
that common sicks out the bottom of the set and is soldered to the radios original common chassis bond.
Great pics bud ! Thanks...I see what you mean with your neat ground bar.
