[OldRestorer]

WHY LORD!

I ordered 60 caps and thought i was good. then a few hours I noticed I needed more. Luckily they stuck it on my order. then a while later I needed more. they again added it to the order. A few days later I realized I again needed more. I put the order in and it wasnt 20 bucks so I could not get it.
Now I received my order and guess what! I didnt order the right Ecap values?? What is wrong with me? I reviewed the order about 4 times and know I had it right... Does this happen to anyone else?

Now I have to wait a week or 2 to finish thee radios. Guess I'll go and grain fill the cabinets before toning..

Ok i'm done griping....

I thank you guys for clearing that up. I will do that when I get my new Ecaps

[Ron Ramirez]

Kirk, I commiserate. Last week I ordered new woofers, midrange and tweeter drivers for two sets of stereo speaker cabinets (that's four boxes, right?) which I picked up cheaply on craigslist. I also ordered new crossover capacitors for them. Well, I only ordered enough crossover caps for two of the four boxes. DUH! So I had to make another order for the rest of the crossover caps I needed. So, I also bought a soldering stand for a pencil soldering iron to help raise the order total. It's an extra something I've needed for a long time, but never had bothered to buy until now. It's already proven itself very useful.

[OldRestorer]

LOL, Nice,
I did it again last night. I was doing my hallicrafters this morning and am missing 5 caps. I emailed them to ask if they can add it to my order. they did it last time sooooo we will see.

The next recap is my 84 and my 37-640... Ugh, never done bakelite blocks and am trying to research how to replace a 3 wire block. philco bench is good but nothing anywhere on rebuilding 3 wire blocks! I need videos, lol

[skyscraper]

What do you mean by three wire? As in two components inside? You should be able to identify on the schematic which block contains what (the part number will be the same), then look up the number on repair bench. You can use an ohmmeter to identify the resistor if there is one.

To remove the plug, cut the little wire in the lug holes with a razor blade, then heat the whole thing with a heat gun. Push it out with a small screwdriver. It isn't hard at all.


Good luck,
Will

[OldRestorer]

You know me by now. If it is more than 2 wires I get confused. does philco bench show how to wire the dual caps in the block, I didn't see it.

Forget that,
I found it!

[gregb]

Hi Kirk:
I must have missed the model, which radio is this block in?

Gregb

[OldRestorer]

It was 5 blocks in a philco 84. I just finished rebuilding them all according to the philco page. Some of my blocks were not on the page so I just recorded where 2 wires were soldered and did it that way, like 3793AD.
I have a can on top with a 4 and an 8 Ecap. now this I am going to have trouble with.

[skyscraper]

I'm not sure exactly what the cans look like, but if they're anything like those in the 89, they have a waxy ring of cardboard around the base, where they are clamped in. The way I did it was heat the cardboard with a heat gun to melt the wax, then gently push it off. Use a hack saw to cut in the middle of where the ring was, and remove all the contents. I used a piece of 10 gauge wire for the new positive terminal, and notched a hole in the cut for the negative one. Then I heated the cardboard ring and slid it back over the cut. Between that and the clamps in the radio, it isn't going anywhere.

Like always, not sure if this applies or not...

[klondike98]

3793AD was discontinued and replaced with 3793ODG. 3793ODG uses the wiring in Fig 1 of the Bakelite data sheet found on Ron's Tech Section page. (See http://www.philcoradio.com/tech/images/bakelite.pdf ) It has two 0.015uF caps and the mounting lug is grounded to the chassis.

As far as the ecap that is the aluminum can type mounted on the top of the chassis, they are not too hard to restuff. See Phil Nelson's info: http://www.antiqueradio.org/recap.htm#replacing .

You can either take the ecap can off the chassis (especially easy if it has a screw type mounting ring that holds it down) or cut the can while its still attached to the chassis. Also note that some can caps are insulated from the chassis and may have a lug that is held against the can by the pressure of the mounting ring, while others have the can connected directly to the chassis.

Example of ecap can that is insulated from the chassis
[Image: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/54621529/80CAP.jpg]

Ecap can being cut in preparation for restuffing.
[Image: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5462...0CAP_2.jpg]

Pulling the guts out of the can
[Image: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5462...0CAP_3.jpg]

Example of cutting can without taking it out of the chassis.
[Image: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5462...LYTIC5.jpg]

Restuffed and ready to glue the can back on.
[Image: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5462....16.03.jpg]

[OldRestorer]

I got that all done and am now trying to get the Ecaps to the right terminals. Do I twist the positives together and then run them to the rectifier? there are 3 terminals and 3 different wire connections under the chassis.
Then I'm not sure what tires the negatives go. or do I twist the negatives and run the positives to the other 2 terminals?. it is 30 and 31 on the schematic
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel...013875.pdf

Thanks for the help thus far
Kirk

[skyscraper]

I think you mean part 29. The negatives are tied together and go to the center tap of the high voltage windings on the transformer.

Positive on the 8uf goes to the B+ from the 80 tube, either pin 1 or 4. It also goes to a .015 cap (in bakelite), and the field coil.

The 4uf connects to the other side of the field coil, the other side of that .015 cap, and the B+ supply to the rest of the radio.

[OldRestorer]

Thanks for the guidance all,

Here is my next question:

I am working on the electrolytics of my halli S-38.

There is one ecap that is 5 leads with red 40 yel 30 yel 30 blue 20 and blk neg?
The piece was obviously changed and one wire is cut off so only 4 go somewhere. I got 4 caps to replace them but:
where do they go?

The other one is a 50+30 with 4 leads but again 2 leads are cut off so I got an 80 but which goes where?
Is only 50 being used? or only 30?
And what is the 200 mfd 15vw at the bottom?
Is that another ecap?

Im not sure since it does not match the schematics.

Schematics here:
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel...008862.pdf

Here are pics:

   
   
   

[gregb]

Hi Kirk:
If you look in the parts list they have provided with the schematic it shows a four section cap for C29,C31,C32, and C33 which is the e-cap your are trying to replace. It also tells you which value goes in each position. Once you have that figured then we will try connecting it up.

Gregb

[OldRestorer]

Ok so here are the lead connections for the 40 30 30 20:

Red goes to a terminal strip
green goes to pin 5 of 35L6 (could be the blue wire?)
orange goes to pin 4 of 35L6(could be the yellow wire?)
Blk goes to another terminal strip
Other Orange or yellow is cut off

As for the 50+30:
Blk? with orange in it goes to same terminal strip as red 40
green goes to pin 4 of 35z5
Last 2 leads are cut off.

I cant follow the lines of the schematic sooooo.....

[OldRestorer]

I think I am going to just replace since all the others are not stuffed.
I am not there in my restoration education yet, lol,

So what should I use? 4 caps? I think I ordered 40 30 30 160 V and a 20 25V