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Nice radio John!
You are right about nice original finish. I think some of us have better luck at finding these radios than others. The way the cookie crumbles as they say.
Tony
“People may not remember how fast you did a job, but they will remember how well you did it”
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I taught myself basic French polishing on a dining table we rescued when my wife and I were just married. Time consuming, but I was pleased with the results.
On other furniture I've worked on, a lot of which is 60's and 70's Danish Modern style, I really like oil finishes, hand applied with a cloth. These also take time to build up, but get deep into the wood grain, and bring out beautiful colour and grain pattern.
I don't hold with furniture that talks.
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Have you guys heard of using Gojo hand cleaner on old radios to remove decades worth of dirt, tobacco residue, grime, and whatever else, leaving the original finish intact?
I have heard somewhere about Gojo. I'm wondering how well it might work, and if there is a downside to using it.
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Lots of Gojo users here I suspect.
Here's an earlier thread discussing it: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=13357
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(06-07-2018, 12:21 PM)rdnzl Wrote: Have you guys heard of using Gojo hand cleaner on old radios to remove decades worth of dirt, tobacco residue, grime, and whatever else, leaving the original finish intact?
I have heard somewhere about Gojo. I'm wondering how well it might work, and if there is a downside to using it.
GooJo leaves behind a residue (probably lanolin or some other hand moisturizer) that gives the finish an oiled look. When this evaporates, the finish does not look as good. Yes, I have used it and it does remove dirt - the only problem being the temporary nature of the residue. So it must be repeated a few time a year. A more permanent fix would be to clean and then oil. Tung oil used properly is an option.
"I just might turn into smoke, but I feel fine"
http://www.russoldradios.com/
(This post was last modified: 06-07-2018, 03:23 PM by Phlogiston.)
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I've been using GoJo cream hand cleaner, or a store private label equivalent hand cleaner, for years, on and off, to clean old finishes. I often use it to find out what the original finish looked like under the layers of wax, grease, and dirt, that typically build up on old furniture over the decades, even if it does need to be stripped and refinished. I was never under the delusion that it does anything other then cleaning the cabinet, it's not a substitute for refinishing or a proper touch up or repair to an existing finish, but it gives you a good base line as to what you are starting with. As Russ says the lanolin and other solvents in GoJo evaporate over time, so the temporary glow to the existing wood goes away after a short time, but the cabinet still looks much better then what you started with. The best part is that hand cleaner is cheap, and much easier to use then something like turpentine, and it isn't harsh on your hands, doesn't stink, all that I have ever used to apply it is ordinary paper towels, no steel wool.
Regards
Arran
(This post was last modified: 06-07-2018, 10:47 PM by Arran.)
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City: Great Falls, MT
Lemon oil, orange oil, sheep juice (lanolin), and other non-drying oils don't really do much other than leave a slow evaporating film that's only good for collecting dust, smearing, smudging leading to a build up that will eventually need to be cleaned, and that's about all.
If you ever want a good laugh and some insight into how little furniture polish and cleaner manufacturers know about wood and wood care, read their labels.
"Nourishes the finish", or "feeds the wood" are some of the more hilarious enticers offered.
Drying oils like tung and linseed oils can potentially harm lacquer and shellac finishes due to the chemical reaction involved in their drying processes and eventually darken and turn the finish black. Unless the piece was originally finished in an oil, avoid these.
Mineral spirits, vinegar and water, even Windex are good cleaners. For a shine on an intact finish (lacquer or shellac) just plain ol' Johnson's paste wax is the way to go.
Silicone is best avoided, no matter what.
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"Sheep juice"
There is an Emu farm down the road. Reminds me, I have had simultaneously disturbing/funny images of how you squeeze an emu to get emu oil. And then the certainty of needing to avoid such things.
Sure, you can use silicone assuming that nobody is ever, EVER going to refinish it again - EVER!
"I just might turn into smoke, but I feel fine"
http://www.russoldradios.com/
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