[Keith]

Here are some photos of the 116X.

Click for larger pic.

[Image: http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m501...c5e2d1.jpg] [Image: http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m501...7b759c.jpg] [Image: http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m501...34ec40.jpg] [Image: http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m501...270093.jpg]

As you can see someone has added a phono input at some point, and installed a toggle switch just above the dial. I'll just leave the toggle I'd probably do more harm then good trying to fill and repair the hole in the burled veneer. I did get good news from the owner that the finish was put on by him, and that it is shellack, so hopefully it wont be a nightmare to re-finish.

I have a lead on some chevron grill cloth, still waiting to hear back from the fellow.

The only thing still sticking out in my mind is the owner powered the radio on and he said he smelled and saw smoke before turning it off. One of the E-caps has a wax fountain coming down the backside of the chassis so I hope that was what was smoldering and not the power transformer, but the 5Z3 rectifier is toast so not looking to good. Fingers crossed!

[Phlogiston]

The "upside down Ls" are naturally darker.

[Arran]

Actually you could try patching the area where the hole is, one good thing about burl and stump walnut is that it has an irregular grain so an irregular shaped patch would be hard to see. I would plug the hole with a piece of hardwood dowel or a plug, and put a patch on the inside of the cabinet so it can't be pushed through.
There are at least two methods to patch the veneer on that panel, one would be to make the patch first tape it over the area where the hole was, and then trace around the outside of it with a razor knife. The other method is to tape a uncut piece of veneer over the area you want to patch and cut through both the new veneer and the veneer on the cabinet at the same time, I use the first method myself. Once the toner covers it all you would never be able to see it.
Regards
Arran

P.S Actually in looking at the marquetry of the front panel you could probably get away with using a straight sides patch running between the edge banding and the dial escutcheon, It's stump or crotch walnut I believe.

[Keith]

Yesterday I tried to see if I could remove the "shellack" from the cabinet. I have not worked with shellack before so I'm only going off what the owner says it is. I tried acetone and it didn't even phase the finish even leaving a cloth soaked in the stuff on the finish.

My next attempt will be 50/50 mix of acetone and lacquer thinner.

Anyone else have experience trying to strip shellack? If that's what it really is. Or should I just leave it and fill the grain and tone and clear the sucker?


I also might attempt to patch the hole where the toggle switch is, I have some mahogany veneer that looks like it will match pretty well. Plus if I get it patched and there are minor flaws they should be mostly covered by the Philco decal.

[Image: http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m501...559868.jpg][Image: http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m501...8c1518.jpg]

[Ron Ramirez]

If it were shellac, acetone would have easily removed it.

And if acetone didn't have any effect on the finish, it sounds like it is the dreaded P-word...polyurethane.

[Keith]

That's what I have been dreading. I figured Shellac would melt away much like lacquer does with acetone.

Well I don't know where to go now, the owner swears that its Shellac and not Poly.

[Ron Ramirez]

Denatured alcohol will melt shellac. Bring the owner over and rub some denatured alcohol on the finish and demonstrate how the finish is not affected.

Some people refuse to believe anything unless you prove it to their face...and even then, sometimes, they will still not believe you.

[Phlogiston]

You probably can use the P-nasty as a sealer. If it is older than a year or two, you can probably apply lacquer over the top of it. If it can be sanded smooth and you don't have any veneer to repair, I would give it a try. If it wrinkles up - well it will be easier to remove.

[Arran]

No I wouldn't try lacquering over polyurethane, knowing the way things work the lacquer may not wrinkle but it may not stick to it either. A very thin coat of shellac maybe, but why take chances, if you can get sanding sealer use sanding sealer.
With regard to using mahogany as a patch, if it is actually mahogany the colour and grain structure will make it stand out if it's set into a stump/crotch walnut panel, unless of course you want it that way. The hole that was drilled was likely only 1/2 inch wide, and the grain was sort of straight in that area, so it shouldn't be too hard to find a piece of walnut that will blend in.
Regards
Arran