[Contributed by Randal (Texasrocker)]

After carefully reading the valuable info on adjusting the Philco (newer style) shadowmeters on Chucks site, I tore into adjusting the one on my Philco 37-630 chassis. The chassis has been completely electronically restored, and all left to do was final “tweaking” of the original shadowmeter. After rebuilding the lamp socket to assure no shorts of the #44 lamp, I installed a new lamp and proceeded. Since I didn’t want the “bulky” escutcheon ( already attached to cabinet) during the “focusing” procedure that has the old yellowed plastic, I used a 2-mil pc of “frosted” privacy window film instead, since pro window films is my primary business anyways, and I had a scrap piece to try. It worked Great!! Point being, the “shadowmeter” must have something in front of the metal housing to “see” the shadow from the vane to be “focused” onto!! I even experimented with white-paper over front of the housing, and that worked also, but was a bit harder to see the focus. I figure a small pc of translucent-waxpaper would suffice also, and allow the shadowmeter to be fully-focused before re-attaching it via the escutcheon holding clips. Worked for me! I found I had to bend the lamp-socket holding bracket attached to the shadowmeter to produce the full rectangular light-view, then, by moving the shadowmeter coil from front to rear, and rotating the coil for best correct ( according to Riders specs) setting the “image” on my temporary plastic, I aligned the shadowmeter perfectly after just a few tries, before attaching it to the escutcheon!! After final adjustments, I clipped the shadowmeter to the escutcheon, It was a “dead-on” perfect adjustment, and it allowed me to “focus” the shadowmeter, without it being attached to the Philco escutcheon period. Just wanted to share my info here.